Pear Cut Moissanite Milgrain Pave Engraved Side Engagement Ring in Sterling Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A pear cut moissanite in six ball tipped claws on a flat topped antique band. A straight line of pave runs down the top face of each shoulder, bordered above and below by a heavy rope of milgrain beading, and the outer side faces of the shank carry hand engraved scrollwork that you only see in profile.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Three surfaces, three treatments

This band is worked on every face and each one is done differently, which is what makes it read as a proper period piece rather than a modern band with beading added.

The top face carries the pave, set in a straight line rather than following a curve, which is the Edwardian and early Deco way and gives the ring its architectural feeling.

The two edges of that top face carry milgrain, and the beading here is deliberately heavier than the fine milgrain we use elsewhere, so it reads as a twisted rope rather than a delicate line.

The outer sides of the shank are engraved with scrollwork. Nobody sees this from above. It shows when you turn your hand, and when someone picks the ring up.

Together they mean there is no plain surface anywhere on the shoulders. That is a great deal of bench work for a band this size, and it is the reason this ring costs more than a plain pave band carrying the same weight of stones.

How this compares with our other antique pear rings

Our Hand Engraved Scroll Three Stone ring has the deepest engraving we do and graduated round side stones, but no pave line and no milgrain.

Our Vintage Milgrain Marquise ring uses milgrain framed marquise panels and engraving, but no continuous pave.

Our Milgrain Twisted Pave ring puts milgrain bordered pave on a twisting shank rather than a straight flat one.

Our Hand Engraved Knife Edge ring is all metal with no stones on the band at all.

This one is the only ring where a straight pave line, heavy milgrain rope and side engraving all appear together on a flat band. If you want the Art Deco look specifically, rather than the softer Edwardian or Victorian looks, this is the one to choose.

The stones

The centre is a pear cut moissanite, sometimes called a teardrop. It is a brilliant cut, so it returns light as sharp flashes of white and coloured fire, and its point elongates the finger.

The accents are round moissanite set in a straight line along each shoulder. Every stone in the ring is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, matched before setting.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which is why it fires so hard, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it holds up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat, with the pave and the pattern scaled to keep the band in proportion.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, and we would recommend warm metal for this design without hesitation. Both the milgrain and the engraving are read entirely through shadow, and yellow gold holds shadow far better than white. In white gold or silver you get a cleaner, colder Art Deco look closer to original platinum work, which some people prefer, but the beading and engraving are noticeably quieter. Rose gold gives the warmest antique feeling. 10K is the hardest gold and keeps beading and engraved edges crisp longest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast, set the pave, apply the milgrain by hand, engrave the sides, file and polish each ring for your chosen metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives, which is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

This ring rewards proper cleaning more than almost anything else we make, because there are three different textures that can fill with residue. Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, worked along the pave, along the beading, and down the engraved sides in the direction of the pattern. Milgrain and engraving that have filled with polish residue and skin oil read as smooth metal and the ring loses most of its character. Both come back completely with a gentle brush. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Reasonably well, because the top of the band is flat. The milgrain edges mean a flat wedding band touches the beading rather than smooth metal, which over many years will soften the beads at the contact point. A slightly curved band or a matched milgrain band avoids it.

Can it be resized? Only within a narrow range, and this is the honest limit of the design. Pave, milgrain and engraving all have to stay continuous across any join, and re engraving across a resize join is skilled work. Please get the size right.

Will the milgrain and engraving wear away? Slowly, and mostly on the underside where the ring meets your palm. The pattern you see, on the shoulders and top, stays crisp for decades and can be re cut by a hand engraver if it ever needs it.

Do the small stones fall out? Properly set pave does not, and the milgrain rope along each edge actually gives the stones a raised metal wall on both sides, which protects them slightly better than open pave.

Is the point of the pear protected? Yes, it has its own claw.

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