Pear Cut Moissanite Milgrain Bezel Engagement Ring in Sterling Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A pear cut moissanite held in a full bezel, a continuous rim of metal wrapped right around the outline of the stone, and that rim is finished with a fine row of milgrain beading following the whole teardrop shape. The band is slim and plain. There are no accent stones anywhere on the ring.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

The beaded rim

A plain bezel is a smooth band of metal around a stone. This one has a row of tiny raised beads worked along its outer edge, following the curve of the pear all the way round including the tight turn at the point.

Milgrain on a curve is fussy work. The beads have to stay even in size and spacing as the radius changes, and at the point of a pear the radius changes very sharply. That is the part of this ring that takes the time, and it is also why it looks like antique jewellery rather than modern jewellery. Beaded edges were standard in Edwardian and Art Deco work and they read that way still.

The beading also does something practical. A plain polished bezel is a large uninterrupted surface that shows every scratch. A beaded edge breaks that surface up, so light scatters and small marks simply do not register.

Why a full bezel

A bezel holds the entire girdle of the stone rather than gripping it at six points. It is the most secure setting there is, and it is completely smooth on the outside, so there is nothing to snag on jumpers, gloves, hair or bag linings.

The honest trade off is light. Wrapping metal around the whole stone means less light enters from the sides, so a bezel set stone reads slightly deeper and less bright than the same stone in claws. It also makes the stone look a fraction smaller from above, because the rim covers the outermost edge.

What you get in return is security, a clean outline and a shape that is genuinely emphasised. On a pear that matters, because the bezel traces the teardrop and makes the shape itself the subject of the ring.

How this compares with our other bezel pear rings

Our Wide Bezel Cup ring has a heavy smooth rim with sculpted claw details, a much more modern and substantial look.

Our Slim Bezel Low Profile ring has a fine plain rim and sits very close to the finger, clean and minimal.

This one is the antique version. The rim carries milgrain beading, which neither of the others has, and that single detail changes its character completely. If you like bezels but find plain ones austere, this is the one to look at.

The stone

The centre is a pear cut moissanite, sometimes called a teardrop. It is a brilliant cut, so it returns light as sharp flashes of white and coloured fire, and its point elongates the finger.

Every centre we set is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity. Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which is why it fires so hard even inside a bezel, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it is second only to diamond among stones you would wear daily.

Choose from 2 carat up to 5 carat. The bezel is made to the individual stone, so the outline stays correct at every size.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which is where milgrain reads best because the beads catch warm highlights and cast small shadows. Rose gold gives the same effect a softer tone. In white metal the beading is subtler. Silver takes milgrain well and is the most affordable route in. 10K is the hardest gold, 14K the everyday balance, 18K the richest in colour and softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast, make the bezel to your stone, apply the milgrain, set, file and polish each ring for your chosen metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives, which is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Milgrain beading traps polish residue and skin oil between the beads, and clogged milgrain looks like a smooth line rather than a row of beads, so brush gently along the rim. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Is a bezel more secure than claws? Yes, considerably. The metal holds the whole edge of the stone. If you work with your hands or simply worry about catching a ring, this is the setting we would point you to.

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, very well. The bezel is smooth on the outside and the band is plain, so a flat band sits close with nothing in the way.

Can it be resized? Yes, comfortably. There are no stones in the shank.

Does the bezel make the stone look smaller? Slightly, yes. The rim covers the outer edge of the girdle. If maximum apparent size matters most to you, a claw set design shows more of the stone.

Will the milgrain wear away? Over many years the beads soften slightly with wear, most on the underside. On the upper rim, where this ring's beading is, it will stay crisp for a very long time.

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