Emerald Cut Moissanite Antique Hand Engraved Filigree Gallery Engagement Ring

Emerald Cut Moissanite Antique Hand Engraved Filigree Gallery Engagement Ring

An emerald cut moissanite in four fine claws above a setting that is decorated on every visible surface. Scrolling foliate engraving runs the full length of the band and continues around the sides of the head, milgrain beading edges every border, and beneath the stone a pierced filigree gallery lets light through the setting from below. There are no accent stones anywhere. All of the ornament is worked into the metal itself, which is exactly how Edwardian jewellers decorated a ring before pave became common.

Why this ring works

Filigree and engraving age differently from pave. A paved band goes grey when it needs cleaning and shows every lost stone. An engraved and pierced setting simply softens over decades, and a jeweller can re cut it. That is why genuine antique rings from the 1910s still look correct today. It also suits a step cut centre stone better than sparkle does, because the quiet texture of worked gold does not compete with the wide flat table of an emerald cut.

Centre stone details

• Stone type: Moissanite
• Shape: Emerald cut, elongated rectangular step cut
• Colour: Colorless
• Clarity: VVS
• Cut and polish: Excellent
• Symmetry: Excellent
• Refractive index: 2.65, higher than diamond, which is why moissanite throws more coloured fire
• Hardness: 9.25 on the Mohs scale, hard enough for daily wear
• Carat options: 2 carat, 3 carat, 4 carat and 5 carat centre stone

Setting and band

Four claw prongs hold the corners of the emerald cut. Beneath the stone a pierced filigree gallery of scrolled openings runs on all four sides, so light passes through the setting. Foliate scrollwork is hand engraved along the outer face and both flanks of the shank and continues up the sides of the head, with milgrain beading along every edge. Band width is approximately two millimetres. Metal is solid throughout with a polished interior.

Metal options

Choose from recycled 925 sterling silver, or solid 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white. Yellow gold, as photographed, is the historically correct choice and shows the engraving most clearly. Rose gold gives a warmer Edwardian feel. White gold and sterling silver read closer to platinum era pieces. White gold is rhodium finished.

Ring sizing

Every ring is made to order in your size. Sizes run from 3 to 13, including half sizes. Because the engraving runs all the way around, order the correct size rather than planning to resize. Contact us if you are unsure and we will help before production starts.

Care

Engraved grooves and pierced galleries hold soap film, and a dirty filigree looks solid rather than open. Clean every few weeks with warm water, mild dish soap and a soft toothbrush, working through the gallery openings from underneath and along the scrollwork. Rinse and dry with a lint free cloth.

Questions people ask

What is filigree? Openwork in metal, either pierced out of a solid sheet or built from fine wire, used to lighten a setting and let light through it. It is one of the defining techniques of Edwardian and early Art Deco jewellery.

Is the engraving done by hand? Yes, after casting. Hand engraving cuts a bright facet into the metal that catches light, which a cast in pattern cannot reproduce.

Will this design date? It is already a hundred years old and still being made, which is about the best evidence available that it will not.

Which metal should I choose? For an authentic antique look choose yellow or rose gold. For a platinum era look choose white gold or sterling silver. For daily wear over decades, 14K balances colour and durability best.

About Mapple Gems

Mapple Gems is a made to order fine jewellery workshop. Every ring is cut, set, engraved and finished by hand after you order, which is why we can offer ten metals and four carat weights on one design. Orders ship worldwide free of charge and every ring carries a lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects.

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