Moissanite 101 ยท Shape vs Shape
Moissanite Asscher vs Princess Cut: Mirrors or Sparkle?
Two square stones the same size on the finger โ one a calm step cut, one a lively brilliant.
Written by the Mapple Gems workshop, Surat ยท Updated 27 September 2026
Short answer
An Asscher and a princess moissanite both face up at about 5.5 mm square at 1 ct DEW. The Asscher is a step cut with cropped corners and a calm, Art Deco "hall of mirrors"; the princess is a brilliant with sharp corners and far more sparkle. The Asscher is easier to wear; the princess shows more colour and hides small flaws better.
This pair is interesting because size is not part of the decision. At the same weight, both stones are square and both face up at almost the same size. What differs is how they handle light and how exposed their corners are. An Asscher returns light in broad, concentric flashes; a princess scatters it into a crisp, criss-cross sparkle.
For all ten shapes, see our moissanite shape comparison.
Asscher vs princess moissanite at a glance
| Asscher | Princess | |
|---|---|---|
| Cut style | Step | Brilliant |
| Face-up at 1 ct DEW | about 5.5 ร 5.5 mm | about 5.5 ร 5.5 mm |
| Fire | Very low | High |
| Corners | Deeply cropped | Sharp points |
| Hides flaws and tint | Poorly | Well |
| Chip risk | Low | At the four points |
| Style | Art Deco, vintage | Modern, crisp |
DEW = diamond equivalent weight. See the moissanite size chart.
Sparkle: calm vs lively
Moissanite's dispersion is 0.104, more than twice diamond's 0.044, so the facet style decides how much of that colour you see. A princess, with its brilliant facets, shows a lot โ crisp, criss-cross flashes with plenty of rainbow. An Asscher's long, flat step facets hold most of that colour back and show broad, glassy flashes arranged in concentric squares. It is one of the calmest moissanite shapes, second only to the emerald cut.
That makes this an easy choice for anyone who already knows how they feel about moissanite's fire. Love it: princess. Want less of it: Asscher.
Corners and what each shows
Both stones are Mohs 9.25 and moissanite has no cleavage planes. A princess's corners are sharp points, where any knock concentrates, so each needs a V- or L-shaped prong. An Asscher's corners are deeply cropped, so they are much less exposed; a prong on each is still standard, but the stone is more forgiving.
The trade-off runs the other way for appearance. An Asscher is a window: tint, inclusions and uneven cutting show more readily. A princess's sparkle hides them. Judge an Asscher on a straight-down video โ the concentric squares should be centred and the facet lines parallel.
From the workshop: the square for people who don't want sparkle.
Some buyers love moissanite for its hardness and value but find its fire too much. For them, the Asscher is often the answer: compact, square, distinctive, and calm. It pairs beautifully with yellow or rose gold, which softens any faint warmth that a step cut might show and suits its Art Deco roots.
For buyers who want a square stone that does sparkle, the princess delivers โ but we would steer anyone with busy hands toward a square radiant instead, which keeps the sparkle and loses the sharp points.
The wedding band
Both are compact squares that do not extend along the finger, so both usually take a straight wedding band flush beside them. Princess cuts pair naturally with channel-set bands; Asscher cuts suit plain or step-cut bands that echo their geometry.
How to decide
- Want calm, mirror-like flashes? Asscher.
- Want lively sparkle? Princess.
- Want the easier stone to wear? Asscher.
- Want the more forgiving stone to look at? Princess.
- Drawn to Art Deco? Asscher.
- Either way: a straight band usually fits.
Keep reading
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between Asscher and princess cut moissanite?
Both are square. An Asscher is a step cut with deeply cropped corners and calm, concentric flashes. A princess is a brilliant cut with sharp corners and lively, colourful sparkle.
Does an Asscher or princess moissanite look bigger?
About the same. Both face up at roughly 5.5 mm square at 1 ct diamond equivalent weight, because both are cut deep.
Which sparkles more, Asscher or princess?
The princess, by a wide margin. The Asscher is one of the calmest moissanite shapes, showing broad mirror-like flashes rather than scattered colour.
Which is more durable, Asscher or princess?
The Asscher, in practice. Both are Mohs 9.25, but the princess's sharp corners need V- or L-prongs, while the Asscher's cropped corners are far less exposed.
Does an Asscher moissanite show tint more than a princess?
It can. A step cut is a window into the stone, so faint warmth is easier to see. Yellow or rose gold softens it; a princess's sparkle hides it more readily.
Mirrors or sparkle?
Every ring is made to order in our Surat workshop. Ask for a video of either stone before it is set.
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