Pear Cut Moissanite Crossover Graduated Pave Engagement Ring in Sterling Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A pear cut moissanite in six ball tipped claws on a band whose two ends cross rather than meet. Each arm sweeps past the setting and tapers away to a fine point, and along the leading edge of each crossing arm runs a line of pave that starts with the largest stone nearest the centre and gets progressively smaller as the metal narrows, until the stones simply stop and the point is bare polished metal.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Graduated pave, and why it is not the same as a straight line

On an ordinary pave band every accent is the same size, so the line of stones has a constant width and simply runs out where the setter stops. Here the stones are graduated. The one closest to the centre is noticeably larger than the one at the far end, and the sizes step down evenly between them.

That does two things. It makes the crossing arms look as though they genuinely taper, because the stones taper with the metal rather than sitting on it. And it draws the eye inward toward the centre stone, since the line gets brighter and bolder as it approaches the pear.

Graduating pave is more work than setting a uniform line, because each stone has to be selected to size and each seat cut individually rather than repeating one measurement down the row. It is a detail most people would not name, but it is the reason this band looks fluid instead of stuck on.

How this compares with our other crossover pear rings

Our Sculpted Bypass Solitaire has the same crossing idea and no stones at all, so it is pure shaped metal. Cheaper, plainer, and the easiest of our rings to look after.

Our Petite Twisted Vine ring has two strands that wind around each other the whole way round the finger, one set and one plain, which is a twist rather than a crossover.

This one sits between them: the crossing shape of the bypass with the sparkle of a set band, concentrated where it matters and fading out where it does not. Look at the side photographs of all three if you are deciding.

The stones

The centre is a pear cut moissanite, sometimes called a teardrop. It is a brilliant cut, so it returns light as sharp flashes of white and coloured fire, and its point elongates the finger.

The accents are round moissanite in graduated sizes. Every stone in the ring is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, matched before setting.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which is why it fires so hard, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it holds up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat, with the graduated line scaled to suit.

The band

The two arms cross under the setting and taper to fine points on the opposite sides. Because the stones sit only along the crossing sections and stop before the points, the underside of the ring and the section against the palm are plain metal, which is both more comfortable and more durable than a fully set shank.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in white gold, where the graduated line reads as one continuous stream of light that thins out toward the tips. In yellow or rose gold the contrast between the set edge and the polished edge of each arm is clearer, which is a different but equally good effect. Silver gives the white gold look for much less. 10K is the hardest gold, 14K the everyday balance, 18K the richest in colour and softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast, select and grade the accent stones, set, file and polish each ring for your chosen metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives, which is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, working along the set edge of each arm and into the crossing point underneath the head. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Not completely. The arms cross at different heights, so a straight band meets the ring unevenly on one side. A curved or contoured band solves it, and this design also wears very well on its own.

Can it be resized? Within a narrow range. The set arms limit how far the shank can be worked, so please get the size right and write to us if you are unsure.

Are the tapered points sharp? No. They are rounded and polished smooth. They look fine but they are comfortable against the neighbouring fingers.

Do the smallest stones fall out? Properly set pave does not, and the smallest stones sit in the widest part of their seats rather than at the very edge of the metal. As with any set band, have the settings checked every couple of years.

Is the point of the pear protected? Yes, it has its own claw.

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