Asscher Cut Moissanite Open Scroll Engraved Ring with Milgrain Rails in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in four ball claws on a band engraved with large open C scrolls, plain metal showing between the curls, framed above and below by heavy milgrain rails, with a matching engraved motif on the gallery beneath the stone. There are no accent stones.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Open scrollwork rather than dense

The engraving here is drawn as a series of distinct C shaped volutes with clear polished metal visible around and between them. You can follow each curl individually and see where it begins and ends.

That is a different intention from our Acanthus band, where the pattern is so dense that no background survives and the whole surface becomes texture. Neither is better. Dense engraving reads as richness; open engraving reads as drawing.

Open scrollwork also holds up better to wear in an odd way: because there is plain metal between the curls, the pattern still reads clearly even after the highest points have softened slightly, whereas a dense pattern loses definition all over at once.

Please read this if you are comparing our engraved bands

We make six asscher rings with engraved or worked metal and they look similar in a thumbnail. They are not the same ring, and the differences are easy to state.

Engraved Leaf is a slim knife edge band with a simple leaf and stem motif on the shoulders only. No accent stones. The lightest and quietest.

Delicate Vine is a slim rounded band with a small sparse twig at each shoulder holding two or three tiny flush set stones. Mostly plain polished metal.

Dense Acanthus carries flowing fine engraving over the whole band with no plain background showing anywhere. No accent stones. The most densely worked.

Open Scroll uses larger, more separated C scrolls with plain metal visible between them, framed top and bottom by heavy milgrain rails. More graphic and legible than the acanthus.

Engraved Vine with Diamonds is a wide flat band with a dense leafy scroll that has small flush set stones worked into the pattern itself. The only engraved band of the six with stones in the engraving.

The milgrain rails

Both edges of the band carry a heavy row of beading, noticeably more substantial than the fine milgrain we use elsewhere. These are rails rather than borders: they stand slightly proud and give the engraved field a defined top and bottom edge.

Practically they also protect the engraving. The highest points of the band are now the beaded rails rather than the scroll, so the rails take the rubbing and the pattern between them wears more slowly. It is decoration doing a structural job, which is usually the sign of a design that came from workshop practice rather than from a drawing.

The engraved gallery

Under the stone, on the gallery that supports the setting, sits a small engraved motif matching the scrollwork on the band. It is visible only in profile. We include it for the same reason antique makers did: the ring should be finished everywhere, not only where it is easily seen.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad blocks rather than sparkling.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity. With no accents anywhere, the centre carries the whole ring.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. The open pattern is less visually demanding than a dense one, so this design sits comfortably with a 2 carat centre as well as a large one.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, where each scroll casts a clear shadow against the polished ground between the curls. Because this pattern has that plain background, it survives white gold better than our dense acanthus does: you still read distinct scrolls, just with less depth. Rose gold is warm and suits the period. Silver is the most affordable route and engraves cleanly. 10K is the hardest and keeps both the scrolls and the beaded rails crisp longest. 14K is the everyday balance. 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast the band, cut each scroll by hand, raise the heavy milgrain rails along both edges, engrave the gallery, set the stone, then polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Open scrollwork is less forgiving than dense: with plain ground around every curl, any unevenness in a line has nowhere to hide. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, brushed across the cut lines rather than along them, and along the beaded rails. Clean under the centre too, and the engraved gallery while you are there. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Never use abrasive polish, which flattens both beading and engraving. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Also in this family

Other engraved designs we make, so you can see the whole choice in one place:

• Tapered Wheat, a wheat and scroll motif on a band that narrows toward the head, no stones

We would rather point you to a different ring of ours than sell you the wrong one. If none of these is quite right, tell us what you are after and we will say so plainly.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? The milgrain rails stand slightly proud of the band, so a plain flat band meets the rails rather than the surface. It sits, but not perfectly flush. A milgrain edged band matches it properly.

Can it be resized? Within a moderate range, and rather more easily than our fully engraved acanthus band, because the open pattern is simpler to match across a join.

Will the engraving wear off? Slowly, and the raised rails take most of the rubbing, which protects the pattern. It can be recut if needed. 10K or 14K slows it further.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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