Pear Old Mine Cut Champagne Lab Grown Diamond Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A pear shaped old mine cut laboratory grown diamond in a warm champagne brown, held by five claws over an openwork gallery cut as a star. This is the one ring in the collection that is not colorless, and it is deliberate.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Pear shaped old mine cut laboratory grown diamond
• Colour: Fancy champagne brown
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Clarity: VS1 to VS2
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Five claws over a pierced star gallery
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

Champagne colour

Champagne is the trade name for diamonds in the warm brown range. In a mined stone the colour comes from tiny distortions in the crystal lattice under pressure. In a laboratory grown stone it is produced deliberately during growth, which means the colour is even across the whole stone rather than patchy, and it means a fancy colour costs a fraction of what a comparable mined one would.

The colour changes how the cut behaves. A colorless old mine cut throws white flashes with rainbow edges. This one throws amber, honey and bronze, and against yellow gold the effect is warm rather than icy. If you have looked at engagement rings and found colorless stones cold, this is the answer to that.

The pear and the star gallery

A pear is a demanding shape to set because the point is thin and it is the first thing to chip. Here the point is protected by a dedicated V shaped claw that wraps it from both sides, with four more claws spread around the body of the stone.

Underneath, the gallery is pierced into a six pointed star. It serves a purpose beyond decoration, because the open work lets light in under the pavilion of a deep antique cut, and on a coloured stone that under lighting is what stops the brown reading as flat and dark.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a stone pulled out of the ground. The only difference is where it grew. Ours are produced by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature growth, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant of any kind. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. It is shown here in 14K yellow gold, which is the natural partner to a champagne stone. 10K gold is the hardest of the three alloys and the most resistant to knocks, 14K is the balance most people choose for daily wear, and 18K is the richest colour but the softest metal. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years to stay bright. Sterling silver is the most affordable route into the design and takes the same certified centre stone.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond in this ring is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate travels with the ring at no extra charge. The report states the carat weight, the colour grade, the clarity grade, the measurements and the laser inscription on the girdle, and it confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. You are not asked to take our word for any of it. Every certificate is included free with every metal and every carat weight, and it is the same document an independent appraiser or an insurer will ask to see.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, the city where the majority of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. Nothing here is pulled off a shelf. When your order arrives we cut the seat for your centre stone, build the setting in the metal you chose, then file, set and polish it by hand for your carat weight and your finger size. That is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes across ten metals and four carat weights without holding a warehouse of stock. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush will keep it bright. Pay attention underneath the stone, because that is where hand cream and soap collect and dull the light coming back through the pavilion. Rinse well and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, for gardening and before swimming, and keep it away from bleach and chlorine, which attack the alloys in gold rather than the diamond itself.

Questions we are asked

Is a champagne diamond a real diamond? Yes. It is chemically and physically diamond, laboratory grown, with the colour produced during growth. The IGI report states the colour grade and confirms the origin.

Will the colour look the same at every carat weight? The larger the stone, the deeper the colour appears, because light travels through more material. A 5 carat will read noticeably richer than a 2 carat.

Which metal suits it best? Yellow and rose gold amplify the warmth. White gold and silver create contrast and make the brown read as more distinctly coloured. Both are good, they are just different intentions.

Is the point of the pear at risk? It is the most vulnerable part of any pear, which is why it gets its own wrapping V claw here rather than an ordinary one.

Will a wedding band sit flush? A straight band meets the shank cleanly. Many people prefer a band with a notch cut for the point, which we can make to match.

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