Emerald Cut Lab Grown Diamond Hidden Halo Engagement Ring with Pave Band in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An emerald cut laboratory grown diamond in four claws, with a second row of small round diamonds set underneath the basket where only you will see it, and a line of pave running down both shoulders. From above it reads as a clean rectangular solitaire. From the side it is a ring with a secret.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Emerald cut laboratory grown diamond
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: E colour, VVS2 clarity
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Four claw emerald with a hidden halo under the basket and a pave band
• Accent stones: Round laboratory grown diamonds, E colour, VVS2
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

What a hidden halo does

The halo sits in the gallery, beneath the girdle of the centre stone, facing outward rather than upward. Because it is below the stone it does not enlarge the outline the way a traditional halo does, so the emerald keeps its own shape. What it adds is light where the ring is usually darkest: the shadow under the basket becomes a bright band, and the centre stone appears to float above the finger.

The emerald cut and why colour matters

An emerald cut is a step cut. Instead of the triangular facets of a brilliant it has long parallel planes, cut in rows like steps, and it works by reflecting broad flashes rather than sparkle. Those open planes show colour and inclusions more readily than any other cut, which is why we fix the grade at E colour and VVS2 clarity here. In a step cut, grade is not a detail. It is the whole effect.

The pave shoulders

Round diamonds are set in a shared claw along the top of each shoulder, tapering slightly as they approach the centre stone. The line of small bright stones next to the calm planes of the emerald is a deliberate contrast, and it is what stops a long rectangular stone from looking severe.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a mined stone. Ours are grown by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature methods, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. White gold is photographed here because a colourless setting keeps nothing between you and the stone. A popular version of this ring uses yellow gold for the band and a white metal head, so the hidden halo reads even brighter when you glimpse it. 10K is the hardest alloy, 14K the everyday balance, 18K the richest colour. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate comes with the ring at no extra charge. It states the carat weight, the E colour grade, the VVS2 clarity grade, the measurements and the girdle inscription, and confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. The hidden halo and pave diamonds are matched to the same E and VVS2 grade.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, where most of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. The hidden halo is set first, from underneath, before the centre stone goes in, and every stone in it is placed by hand under a microscope. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Brush up into the gallery from below, because the hidden halo is exactly where dust and lotion settle and it is the one part you cannot see getting dull. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming.

Questions we are asked

What colour and clarity is the diamond? Every centre stone is E colour and VVS2 clarity, on every metal and every carat weight. The halo and pave stones are matched to the same grade.

Does the carat weight include the halo? No. The 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat options refer to the centre emerald cut stone. The hidden halo and the pave are in addition.

Is the certificate really free? Yes. The IGI report for the centre stone is included in the price on every variant.

Will a wedding band sit flush against it? Yes. The shank is straight and the hidden halo sits above the band, so a straight wedding ring sits close on both sides.

Can it be resized? The pave runs about two thirds of the way round, leaving plain metal at the back. One or two sizes either way is straightforward.

Do emerald cuts sparkle less? They flash rather than sparkle. Where a brilliant scatters light into many small points, a step cut returns it in wide mirror like planes. It is a quieter, more architectural kind of brightness.

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