Pear Cut Moissanite Pave Leaf Openwork Engagement Ring in Sterling Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A pear cut moissanite held in six claws, with shoulders that open into broad sculpted leaves. Each leaf is a flat pierced form filled with micropave, and between the leaves the metal is cut away entirely so you can see through the shoulders of the ring. The band beyond carries a fine continuing line of pave.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, and the piercing on this design is the reason it takes longer at the bench than most of our rings.

Pierced leaves rather than applied ones

There are two ways to make a botanical ring. You can add leaf shapes on top of a band, or you can cut the leaves out of the metal so the openings become part of the design. This is the second kind, and the difference matters when you look at the ring in the hand.

Because the metal is pierced, light passes through the shoulders. The leaves read as flat planes with sharp cut edges rather than as lumps of gold, and the openings between them keep a fairly substantial head looking light on the finger. Each leaf is then pave set along its length, so the shapes catch light as well as framing it.

The shoulders are asymmetric in the way real foliage is. The leaves are not identical mirror images stamped either side, they vary slightly in angle and length, which is what stops the design looking mechanical.

How this compares with our other nature designs

We list several botanical pear rings and they are genuinely different plants, so to speak.

Our Sculpted Vine and Marquise Leaf ring builds its leaves from marquise cut stones, so the leaf shapes are made of gemstones rather than metal.

Our Twisting Milgrain Vine ring is a slim twisting band with beaded edges and small asymmetric leaf details, much more delicate overall.

This one is the boldest and the most architectural of the group. Broad flat metal leaves, pierced openings, pave running through the leaf forms. If you want a nature design with presence rather than a whisper, this is it. It is also the only one of the three where you can see through the shoulders.

The stones

The centre is a pear cut moissanite, sometimes called a teardrop. It is a brilliant cut, so it returns light as sharp flashes of white and coloured fire, and its point elongates the finger. It sits slightly raised above the leaf shoulders so it is not crowded by them.

The accents are small round moissanite, pave set into the leaf forms and along the band. Every stone in the ring is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, matched to the centre before setting.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which is why it fires so hard, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it holds up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. This design carries larger centres particularly well, because the leaf shoulders are substantial enough to balance a big stone.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which we think suits it best because the pierced leaves read as botanical gold work rather than as a setting. Rose gold gives the same effect a warmer, more romantic reading. In white metal the leaves become quieter and the pave dominates. Silver is the most affordable way to own the design. 10K is the hardest gold, 14K the everyday balance, 18K the richest in colour and softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast, pierce, set, file and polish each ring for your chosen metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives, which is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

This design needs a little more attention than a plain ring, and we would rather say so plainly. Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, worked into the pierced openings from both sides. Openwork traps hand cream and soap in places a cloth cannot reach, and a clogged pierced ring loses the very thing that makes it good, which is the light coming through. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Not perfectly. The leaf shoulders give the ring a shaped outline, so a straight band will leave small gaps at the sides. A contoured band solves it, and many people wear this design alone because the shoulders are the point of it.

Can it be resized? Within a narrow range only. The pave along the band and the piercing at the shoulders both limit how far the shank can be worked, so please get the size right and write to us if you are unsure.

Is pierced metal weaker? Not in practice. The leaves are cut from a thicker section than a plain band, so what is removed is compensated for by what is left. It is still a decorative ring rather than a workhorse though.

Do the small stones fall out? Properly set pave does not, but it is more vulnerable to knocks than a plain band. Have the settings checked every couple of years.

Is the point of the pear protected? Yes, it has its own claw.

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