Pear Cut Moissanite Ornate Openwork Vine Engagement Ring in Sterling Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A pear cut moissanite in six ball tipped claws above shoulders built as pierced scrollwork, with marquise accents set into the curling openings, small rounds threaded between them and micropave running along the outer edges. Light passes straight through the gaps in the metal.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

The most worked ring in our pear range

There is no plain surface on the shoulders of this ring. Each side is a piece of pierced scrollwork, meaning the metal is cut away in curling shapes to leave openings rather than a solid band. Marquise cut stones are set within those openings, small rounds fill the junctions, and a fine line of pave runs along each outer edge to define the outline.

That is four separate operations on a surface a few millimetres across, and it is why this ring takes longer at the bench than anything else we make in this shape.

The reason to do it is what happens with light. A solid band reflects light off its surface. A pierced one lets light through it, so the scrollwork reads as a pattern of bright metal against shadow that changes constantly as your hand moves. The stones then sit inside that moving pattern rather than on top of a flat plate.

How this compares with our other openwork pear rings

Our Pierced Pave Leaf ring has openwork shoulders too, but the openings are leaf shaped and only pave fills the metal, with no larger stones set into the gaps. Lighter and more botanical.

Our Marquise Wreath Braided Pave ring puts its marquise around the centre stone as a wreath rather than into the shoulders, and its band is braided rather than pierced.

Our Celtic Knot ring uses pierced interwoven loops with pave along them, a geometric rather than floral pattern.

This ring is the only one that combines pierced scrollwork, marquise set into the openings, rounds at the junctions and edge pave all in the same shoulder. If you want the most detailed pear ring we make, this is it, and it is priced accordingly.

The stones

The centre is a pear cut moissanite, sometimes called a teardrop. It is a brilliant cut, so it returns light as sharp flashes of white and coloured fire, and its point elongates the finger.

The accents are marquise and round moissanite in several sizes. Every stone in the ring is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, matched before setting.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which is why it fires so hard, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it holds up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat, with the scrollwork scaled so its density stays right for the size of the stone.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which we would recommend strongly for this design, because pierced work is read through the contrast between metal and the shadow behind the openings, and warm metal gives the strongest contrast. In white gold or silver the scrollwork is much harder to read and the ring looks simply busy rather than detailed. Rose gold gives a warm Victorian feeling. 10K is the hardest gold and holds fine pierced work best, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest, and on openwork this fine we would gently steer you to 10K or 14K. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast, pierce and finish the scrollwork, set the marquise into the openings, set the rounds and the edge pave, file and polish each ring for your chosen metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives, which is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

This is the ring in our range that most rewards regular cleaning, and it needs the most attention. Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, worked from both above and below so the brush passes through the openings. Pierced work that has filled with hand cream and soap stops being pierced work visually, because the shadow behind the gaps is what makes the pattern read. It comes back completely with a proper brush, but a wipe will not do it. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? No. The scrollwork is wider than the shank and stands proud on both sides. A contoured band shaped to it is the only good answer, or wear this one alone, which suits a ring this decorative.

Can it be resized? Only within a very narrow range, and this is the real limitation of the design. Pierced scrollwork cannot be cut through without destroying the pattern. Please get the size right, and write to us before ordering if you are unsure, we would much rather help first.

Is pierced work fragile? Less than it looks. The openings are small and the remaining metal is arranged as curves, which are stronger than straight bars. It is still the ring in our range we would be most careful with, and not the one to choose if your work is hard on your hands.

Do the small stones fall out? Properly set stones do not, but this ring has more settings than any other we make. Have it checked every couple of years.

Is the point of the pear protected? Yes, it has its own claw.

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