Oval Moissanite Milgrain Collar Split Shank Engagement Ring

Oval Moissanite Milgrain Collar Split Shank Engagement Ring

Two vintage details carry this ring. The first is the collar: a narrow band of metal follows the outline of the oval and its edge is worked in milgrain, a row of tiny beads raised with a hand tool. The second is the shank, which splits some way before the head and opens into a long V on each side, leaving an open triangle of space where a plain band would be solid. Four slim claws hold the stone over the collar. There are no accent stones anywhere; all the decoration is in the metalwork. Made to order in Surat, India, in ten metals and four centre stone sizes.

Center stone details

• Stone type: Moissanite, a lab created silicon carbide gemstone
• Shape: Oval brilliant cut
• Color: Colorless
• Clarity: VVS
• Carat options: 2 carat, 3 carat, 4 carat and 5 carat
• Cut and polish: Excellent
• Symmetry: Excellent
• Luster: Excellent
• Hardness: 9.25 on the Mohs scale
• Setting: Four slim claws over a milgrain edged collar

Design details

• Collar: Narrow metal band following the outline of the stone, edged in hand raised milgrain beading
• Shank: Split, opening into a V on each side before rejoining at the base
• Finish: High polish with matte free milgrain detail
• Accent stones: None

Design and craftsmanship

Milgrain is made by running a small knurled wheel along the edge of the metal, raising a line of beads one at a time. Done well the beads are identical in size and evenly spaced all the way round; done quickly they blur into a rough ridge. On a curved oval collar the tool has to be steered constantly, and the tightest part of the curve at each end is where most milgrain work goes wrong. Our bench takes the tool round in several light passes rather than one heavy one, which keeps the beads crisp. The split in the shank is cut and shaped after the head is soldered on, so the two arms of the V can be balanced against the actual weight of the finished top. Every ring is hand finished in our Surat workshop.

How moissanite compares to a diamond

Moissanite is silicon carbide, a different material from diamond rather than a lower grade of one. At 9.25 on the Mohs scale against a diamond at 10, it is hard enough for daily wear. Its refractive index is higher, so it returns more coloured fire, and with no accent stones anywhere on this ring, that fire is the only source of sparkle. The milgrain beading catches light in a completely different way, as many tiny points of reflection rather than flashes, which is what gives the design its antique character. This ring is sold as moissanite and is never described as a diamond.

Metal options

Available in 925 sterling silver, 10K yellow gold, 10K rose gold, 10K white gold, 14K yellow gold, 14K rose gold, 14K white gold, 18K yellow gold, 18K rose gold and 18K white gold. Yellow gold, as photographed, is the traditional metal for milgrain work and shows the beading most clearly. Rose gold gives the softest antique feeling. White gold makes the collar almost disappear against the stone, which suits people who want the vintage shape without the vintage colour. For daily wear 14K keeps milgrain beads sharp longer than softer 18K, and 925 sterling silver is the most affordable way to try the design.

Ring size

Every ring is made to your finger size, so choose your size at checkout. We make US sizes 3 through 13, including half sizes. The lower half of the shank is a single plain band, so resizing later is straightforward.

Custom orders

We can add milgrain along the edges of the shank as well, set pave into the split arms, add a hidden halo, use a lab grown diamond or a coloured moissanite in the centre, or make a matching milgrain edged wedding band. For any other request please contact us at https://mapplegems.com/pages/contact and we will quote it before you order.

Frequently asked questions

Is this a moissanite ring or a diamond ring?
It is a moissanite engagement ring. The centre stone is lab created moissanite and the ring is sold as moissanite. We never describe it as a diamond.

What is milgrain?
A row of tiny raised metal beads worked along an edge with a hand tool. It is an antique finishing technique and it softens the outline of a setting, giving jewellery its characteristic vintage look.

Does milgrain wear away?
Slowly, over many years of contact, the beads can soften. Any jeweller can re-cut them, and choosing 14K rather than 18K slows the process because the metal is harder.

What is a split shank?
The band divides into two arms before it reaches the setting, leaving an open space on each side. It makes the head look as though it is floating and gives the ring more presence without adding stones.

Is the collar a bezel?
Not quite. A bezel holds the stone by itself; this collar sits under the girdle as a decorative frame while four claws do the actual holding. It gives you the outline of a bezel with the openness of a prong setting.

Will a wedding band sit flush against it?
Yes, closely. The split arms sit level with the finger, so a straight band meets the ring cleanly at the base of the V. A milgrain edged band matches the detail exactly.

Which centre size suits this setting?
All four. The collar and split shank scale with the stone, so the proportions stay the same from 2 carat through 5 carat.

How do I clean it?
Warm water, mild soap and a soft brush, working gently along the milgrain so the beads stay clean. Rinse well and dry with a lint free cloth.

How long does it take to make?
Production usually takes ten to fourteen working days, plus shipping time. Every ring is made only after it is ordered.

Our services

• Free tracked worldwide shipping
• Made to order in your exact ring size, US 3 to 13
• Lifetime prong check with cleaning
• Thirty day return window
• Secure packaging in a presentation box
• Conflict free and ethically produced stones

About Mapple Gems

Mapple Gems is a made to order fine jewelry workshop in Surat, India, one of the world leading diamond cutting and polishing centres. We set moissanite, lab grown diamonds and coloured gemstones in solid gold and sterling silver, and we make each piece only after it is ordered, which keeps prices low without holding stock. Questions before you buy are welcome at https://mapplegems.com/pages/contact.

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