Oval Cut Lab Grown Diamond Solitaire Engagement Ring on a Plain Band in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An oval laboratory grown diamond in four claws on a slim polished band, with an open basket underneath and nothing else anywhere on the ring. No halo, no hidden stones, no pave. It is the most asked for engagement ring shape in the most asked for setting, and there is nowhere for a poor stone to hide in it.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Oval brilliant laboratory grown diamond
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: E colour, VVS2 clarity
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Four claw oval on an open basket, slim plain shank
• Accent stones: None, the centre stone stands alone
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

Why an oval

An oval brilliant spreads its weight along the finger instead of down into the stone. At the same carat weight it covers more of the hand than a round, and its long outline lengthens the finger. A 2 carat oval here measures roughly 9 by 6.5 millimetres, a 3 carat about 11 by 7.5, and a 5 carat closer to 13.5 by 9.5 millimetres.

The open basket

Beneath the stone the setting is a cage rather than a cup, so light can enter from the sides and underneath as well as through the table. That is most of the reason an oval in an open setting looks livelier than the same stone set into closed metal, and it is also why the ring is easy to clean.

A plain band makes the stone look larger

The eye judges size by comparison. Put a 3 carat oval on a wide paved shank and it has competition; put the same stone on a narrow polished band and it is the only thing to look at. A plain band also resizes freely, never needs its stones checked, and sits flush against a wedding ring.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a mined stone. Ours are grown by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature methods, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Yellow gold is photographed here, and warm metal against a colourless oval is the classic pairing for this setting. On a band this narrow, 10K and 14K keep their shape better over years of wear than 18K. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate comes with the ring at no extra charge. It states the carat weight, the E colour grade, the VVS2 clarity grade, the measurements and the girdle inscription, and confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. On a plain solitaire the certificate matters more than on any other ring we make, because the stone is the entire design.

About the bow tie

Every oval can show a bow tie, a dark band across the middle caused by the proportions of the cut rather than by colour or clarity. No certificate grades it, and with no pave or halo to distract from it, a bow tie on a plain solitaire is impossible to ignore. We check every oval by eye and reject the ones that show it.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, where most of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. The claws are placed to the individual stone, since every oval curves slightly differently, and they are drawn down at the points where the stone is widest so they hold without covering more than they have to. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Brush up through the open basket from underneath. This is one of the easiest rings we make to keep bright, because there is almost nothing on it to trap anything. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming.

Questions we are asked

What colour and clarity is the diamond? Every centre stone is E colour and VVS2 clarity, on every metal and every carat weight.

Is the certificate really free? Yes. The IGI report for the centre stone is included in the price on every variant.

Will a wedding band sit flush against it? Yes. The shank is straight and narrow, so a matching plain band sits neatly beside it with no gap.

Can it be resized? Yes, freely. The whole band is plain metal. One or two sizes either way is straightforward.

Can I add a hidden halo later? Not to this setting. If you want one, tell us before we make the ring and we will build the basket to take it.

Is a thin band strong enough for a large stone? Yes, made properly. We use a heavier gauge than the width suggests and the head braces the top. For daily wear at 4 or 5 carat we would steer you toward 10K or 14K rather than silver.

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