Oval Cut Lab Grown Diamond Hidden Halo Solitaire Engagement Ring on a Fine Band in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A large oval laboratory grown diamond in four slim claws, with a hidden halo beneath it, on a band drawn as fine as gold will sensibly go. The whole design is an argument about proportion: make the metal as small as possible and the stone does the rest.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Oval brilliant laboratory grown diamond
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: E colour, VVS2 clarity
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Four claw oval with a hidden halo, on a fine plain band
• Accent stones: Round laboratory grown diamonds in the hidden halo, E colour, VVS2
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

Why the band is this thin

Size is judged by comparison, and on an engagement ring the only thing next to the diamond is the metal holding it. A substantial shank gives the stone something to be measured against and it shrinks. A shank drawn down to a fine line gives it nothing. At 4 and 5 carat the effect is considerable: the stone appears to sit on the finger almost unsupported.

The hidden halo

Small round diamonds circle the outside of the basket, below the girdle and facing outward. From above the oval outline is completely clean. From the side, light fills the space between the stone and the finger, which stops a large stone on a fine band from looking precariously perched.

Four claws, no more

Four slim claws rather than six, placed at the shoulders and the ends of the oval. Fewer claws means less metal across the face of the stone and more of the diamond visible, and on an oval four is entirely sufficient.

Which alloy to choose

We would steer you towards 10K or 14K on this one rather than 18K. A very fine shank carrying a heavy head relies on the hardness of the alloy to stay round, and 10K is the hardest of the three. 18K is the richest colour but the softest metal, and on this design that trade is a real one.

Why an oval reads larger

An oval brilliant carries most of its weight in spread rather than depth, so at a given carat weight it covers more finger than a round. A 4 carat oval here measures roughly 12.5 by 8.5 millimetres, and a 5 carat closer to 13.5 by 9.5 millimetres.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a mined stone. Ours are grown by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature methods, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Yellow gold is photographed here, and a fine warm line under a large colourless stone is the whole contrast this design depends on. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate comes with the ring at no extra charge. It states the carat weight, the E colour grade, the VVS2 clarity grade, the measurements and the girdle inscription, and confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. The hidden halo diamonds are matched to the same E and VVS2 grade.

About the bow tie

Every oval has the potential for a bow tie, a dark band across the middle caused by the proportions of the cut rather than by colour or clarity. No certificate grades it. It matters more on a large stone than a small one, simply because there is more of it to see. We check every oval by eye and reject the ones that show it.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, where most of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. The hidden halo is built to the footprint of your individual stone, and the shank is tapered so the metal is where the stress is. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Brush up into the basket to keep the hidden halo bright. Take the ring off by the head rather than pulling on the shank, since a fine band will distort over time if you do.

Questions we are asked

What colour and clarity is the diamond? Every centre stone is E colour and VVS2 clarity, on every metal and every carat weight. The hidden halo stones are matched to the same grade.

Is a band this fine strong enough for a 5 carat stone? In 10K or 14K, yes, for normal wear. It is not a ring for heavy manual work, but no large solitaire is.

Is the certificate really free? Yes. The IGI report for the centre stone is included in the price on every variant.

Will a wedding band sit flush against it? Yes. The shank is plain and straight, so a wedding band tucks in close beneath the basket.

Can it be resized? Yes, though we would rather build it to your size from the start, since a very fine tapered shank is easier to make right than to alter.

• All payments are processed securely through PayPal, one of the world's most trusted payment gateways
• Pay with your PayPal balance, or with any major credit or debit card through PayPal's secure checkout
• No PayPal account required — guest checkout available
• PayPal Purchase Protection applies to eligible orders