Old Mine Cut Lab Grown Diamond Sculptural Wave Bezel Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An elongated old mine cut laboratory grown diamond in a thick matte bezel whose outline waves in and out rather than following the stone exactly, carried on a double split shank. The bezel is a shape in its own right and the diamond sits inside it.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Elongated old mine cut laboratory grown diamond
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: D to F colorless, VS1 to VS2
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Heavy waved bezel, matte brushed finish
• Band: Double split shank
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

The waved bezel

Most bezels are an even collar that traces the girdle at a constant width. This one does not. It swells at the corners and pinches at the middle of each long side, so the gold outline is a soft, four lobed shape sitting around a rectangular cushion stone. The effect is that the ring has two outlines at once, the stone's and the metal's, and they disagree pleasantly.

It is a harder thing to make than it looks. The seat inside still has to follow the stone precisely and at a constant depth, even while the outside wall is changing thickness all the way round, so the wall is thick in some places and thin in others and has to be burnished down evenly regardless.

The double shank

The band splits into two parallel curves that separate as they approach the setting and rejoin underneath the finger. The open space between them lightens what would otherwise be a very heavy ring, and it lets you see through the ring to your own skin, which keeps a large piece of gold from reading as solid and blocky.

As with its marquise sibling in this collection, the metal is brushed to a matte finish so that nothing on the ring competes with the diamond for attention.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a stone pulled out of the ground. The only difference is where it grew. Ours are produced by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature growth, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant of any kind. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. It is shown here in brushed 14K gold, the finish the piece was designed around. 10K gold is the hardest of the three alloys and the most resistant to knocks, 14K is the balance most people choose for daily wear, and 18K is the richest colour but the softest metal. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years to stay bright. Sterling silver is the most affordable route into the design and takes the same certified centre stone.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond in this ring is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate travels with the ring at no extra charge. The report states the carat weight, the colour grade, the clarity grade, the measurements and the laser inscription on the girdle, and it confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. You are not asked to take our word for any of it. Every certificate is included free with every metal and every carat weight, and it is the same document an independent appraiser or an insurer will ask to see.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, the city where the majority of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. Nothing here is pulled off a shelf. When your order arrives we cut the seat for your centre stone, build the setting in the metal you chose, then file, set and polish it by hand for your carat weight and your finger size. That is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes across ten metals and four carat weights without holding a warehouse of stock. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush will keep it bright. Pay attention underneath the stone, because that is where hand cream and soap collect and dull the light coming back through the pavilion. Rinse well and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, for gardening and before swimming, and keep it away from bleach and chlorine, which attack the alloys in gold rather than the diamond itself.

Questions we are asked

Is this the same design as your marquise sculptural ring? Same family and same finish, different stone and different bezel. That one holds a pointed marquise in a smooth flowing bezel. This one holds an elongated cushion in a waved four lobed bezel on a double shank.

Will a wedding band sit flush? Not against a straight band, because the shank is split and shaped. A contoured band that follows the curve is the right pairing and we can make one to match.

Is it comfortable with two shanks? Yes. They rejoin into a single smooth band under the finger, so it wears like an ordinary comfort fit ring.

Will the matte finish stay matte? It gently polishes itself with wear. We refinish it free for the life of the ring.

Can it be resized? Within a size or two. The split construction makes larger changes awkward, so we recommend confirming with a free ring sizer before ordering.

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