Old Mine Cut Lab Grown Diamond Hidden Halo Double Claw Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An elongated old mine cut laboratory grown diamond held in four double claws, with a row of pave set diamonds hidden underneath the centre stone where only you can see them. From above it reads as a clean solitaire. From the side it gives away a second row of light.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Elongated old mine cut laboratory grown diamond
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: D to F colorless, VS1 to VS2
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Four double claws with a hidden pave halo
• Accent stones: Round brilliant laboratory grown diamonds
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

What a hidden halo actually is

A conventional halo rings the centre stone with small diamonds on the top face, which makes the stone look bigger but changes the outline. A hidden halo puts that row on the vertical wall of the basket instead, underneath the girdle, facing outward. Look straight down and you see a solitaire with nothing around it. Turn your hand and a band of light appears under the stone.

It is a modern idea rather than an antique one, and pairing it with an old mine cut is deliberate. The hidden row is cut in small modern brilliants, so it throws fast white sparkle directly beneath a stone that throws slow, broad flashes. The two behave differently under the same light, and that contrast is the whole point of the design.

Double claws

Each of the four corners is held by two slim claws rather than one thick one. There are two reasons. The first is security, because two points of contact per corner means a knock that lifts one claw still leaves three others plus its partner holding. The second is visual. Two fine claws cover less of the stone than one heavy claw covering the same area, so more of the old mine cut's high crown stays visible. It is a detail borrowed straight from Edwardian and early Art Deco settings.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a stone pulled out of the ground. The only difference is where it grew. Ours are produced by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature growth, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant of any kind. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. It is shown here in 14K yellow gold, which sets off the colorless centre and accents. 10K gold is the hardest of the three alloys and the most resistant to knocks, 14K is the balance most people choose for daily wear, and 18K is the richest colour but the softest metal. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years to stay bright. Sterling silver is the most affordable route into the design and takes the same certified centre stone.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond in this ring is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate travels with the ring at no extra charge. The report states the carat weight, the colour grade, the clarity grade, the measurements and the laser inscription on the girdle, and it confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. You are not asked to take our word for any of it. Every certificate is included free with every metal and every carat weight, and it is the same document an independent appraiser or an insurer will ask to see.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, the city where the majority of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. Nothing here is pulled off a shelf. When your order arrives we cut the seat for your centre stone, build the setting in the metal you chose, then file, set and polish it by hand for your carat weight and your finger size. That is how we can offer twenty one ring sizes across ten metals and four carat weights without holding a warehouse of stock. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush will keep it bright. Pay attention underneath the stone, because that is where hand cream and soap collect and dull the light coming back through the pavilion. Rinse well and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, for gardening and before swimming, and keep it away from bleach and chlorine, which attack the alloys in gold rather than the diamond itself.

Questions we are asked

Do the hidden diamonds show when it is worn? Only from the side and only at certain angles, which is exactly the intention. Straight down it looks like a plain solitaire.

Will a wedding band sit flush? Very nearly. The basket sits a little proud, so a straight band leaves a small gap under the head. A shaped or slightly curved band closes it completely.

Do the pave stones scale with the centre? Yes. We size the hidden row to the centre stone so the proportions stay right at 2 carat and at 5 carat.

Can it be resized? Yes. The lower shank is plain, so resizing does not touch the pave or the claws.

Are the accent diamonds also laboratory grown? Yes, every stone in the ring is laboratory grown and every accent is matched to the centre for colour so nothing looks grey against it.

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