East West Oval Cut Lab Grown Diamond Bezel Spiral Engagement Ring with Pave in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An oval laboratory grown diamond set low across the finger in a full bezel, on a band that wraps round and comes back over the top rather than closing where it started. The second pass is set edge to edge with small round diamonds, so the ring reads as one plain band and one band of light crossing above the stone.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Oval brilliant laboratory grown diamond, set east west
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: E colour, VVS2 clarity
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Low east west bezel on a spiral shank, with a pave set upper pass
• Accent stones: Round laboratory grown diamonds, E colour, VVS2
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

A band that crosses itself

The shank leaves the bezel, travels round the finger and returns above the stone instead of meeting its own end. That upper pass sits clear of the lower one, so from some angles the ring looks like two rings worn together and from others like a single continuous line. Both passes are cut from one piece of metal, which is the only way the geometry holds.

Why the oval lies sideways

Set upright, an oval runs along the finger and stands proud. Turned east west it lies within the width of the hand and sits low, which is what allows the second pass of the band to travel above it without the ring becoming tall. The horizontal stone and the crossing band pull against each other, and that tension is the design.

The bezel

A rim of metal follows the whole girdle of the oval, holding it from every direction at once. Nothing projects, there are no claws to catch or wear thin, and the low profile keeps the ring steady on the finger. It is the most practical setting there is, and on a design with a band passing over the top it is also the only one that would work.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a mined stone. Ours are grown by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature methods, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. All three golds are photographed here. A spiral shank carries more stress than an ordinary band because part of its length is unsupported, so 10K or 14K is the sensible choice for daily wear and 18K is better suited to occasional use. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate comes with the ring at no extra charge. It states the carat weight, the E colour grade, the VVS2 clarity grade, the measurements and the girdle inscription, and confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. The pave diamonds are matched to the same E and VVS2 grade.

About the bow tie

Every oval can show a bow tie, a dark band across the middle of the stone caused by the proportions of the cut rather than by colour or clarity. It shows more on an east west setting because it then lies along the finger in plain view. No certificate grades it. We check every oval by eye and reject the ones that show it.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, where most of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. The spiral is formed and both passes aligned before any stone is set, then the bezel is built around your particular oval and burnished down by hand. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Clean between the two passes of the band, which a cloth cannot reach, and around the outside edge of the bezel. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming.

Questions we are asked

What colour and clarity is the diamond? Every centre stone is E colour and VVS2 clarity, on every metal and every carat weight. The pave is matched to the same grade.

Does the carat weight include the pave? No. The 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat options refer to the centre oval. The pave on the upper pass is in addition.

Is the certificate really free? Yes. The IGI report for the centre stone is included in the price on every variant.

Will a wedding band sit flush against it? No. The upper pass already occupies the space a wedding band would take, and the ring arguably reads as a stacked pair on its own.

Can it be resized? Only slightly. The spiral is formed to a specific finger size and both passes have to stay aligned. Please measure carefully and we will build to your size.

Does the crossing band move? No. Both passes are one piece of metal joined at the bezel. It looks like two rings and behaves like one.

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