East West Oval Cut Lab Grown Diamond Solitaire Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An oval cut laboratory grown diamond set east west, lying across the finger instead of along it, in four claws on a thin plain band. Same stone, same setting, turned ninety degrees, and the ring becomes something quite different from a standard oval solitaire.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Oval cut laboratory grown diamond, set east west
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: E colour, VVS2 clarity
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Four claw solitaire, east west orientation
• Band: Thin plain round band, no accent stones
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

What turning it sideways does

Set north south, an oval lengthens the finger and looks formal. Set east west, it spans the finger, sits lower and reads as relaxed and modern. It also makes the stone look wider than it is, because the eye measures a diamond against the width of the finger it sits on. People who like ovals but find the usual setting too traditional tend to prefer this one immediately.

Practical as well as different

An east west stone sits closer to the hand, so it catches less on clothing and knocks less on doorframes than an upright oval of the same size. Nothing sticks out along the finger, which also means it stacks more easily with a plain wedding band.

Four claws at the tips

In this orientation the claws go at the ends of the oval, which is where the stone is thinnest and where the metal is most needed, and at the sides, which keeps the stone from rotating. Each claw is filed low so it does not break the long outline of the diamond across the finger.

The bow tie

Every oval has a faint dark band across its middle, called a bow tie, caused by the way the pavilion facets meet. On a well cut stone it is barely noticeable. On a badly cut one it is a black stripe that never goes away. Set east west that stripe would run up and down the finger where it is most visible, so we are particularly strict about it on this design.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a mined stone. Ours are grown by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature methods, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. This ring was photographed in white metal, and every metal is made to order and priced above. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate comes with the ring at no extra charge. It states the carat weight, the E colour grade, the VVS2 clarity grade, the measurements and the girdle inscription, and confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, where most of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. An east west head is built differently from an upright one, because the stone bridges the shank rather than sitting on top of it, so the seat has to be cut to the exact length of the individual oval. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, brushing under the stone from below. An east west setting sits close to the finger and collects soap underneath, so clean it from the back regularly. Take the ring off for the gym, gardening and swimming.

Questions we are asked

What colour and clarity is the diamond? E colour and VVS2 clarity, on every metal and every carat weight.

Does east west mean a different stone? No. It is the same oval cut diamond, simply set across the finger instead of along it.

Will it make my finger look shorter? Slightly, compared with an upright oval, which is the trade for the wider, lower look. On longer fingers the effect is flattering; on very short fingers an upright oval is usually the safer choice.

Is the certificate really free? Yes. The IGI report for the centre stone is included in the price on every variant.

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes. This is one of the easiest settings to stack, since the stone sits low and the band is plain.

Can it be resized? Yes. The shank is plain all the way around, so one or two sizes either way is straightforward.

• All payments are processed securely through PayPal, one of the world's most trusted payment gateways
• Pay with your PayPal balance, or with any major credit or debit card through PayPal's secure checkout
• No PayPal account required — guest checkout available
• PayPal Purchase Protection applies to eligible orders