Asscher Cut Moissanite Twisted Vine Pave Split Shank Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite set into a band that splits and twists at the shoulders, two ribbons of metal crossing over one another with micropave set along them and open daylight gaps between the crossings. The head rises on a cathedral, so the stone sits above the twist rather than inside it.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

A geometric stone in an organic setting

This is a deliberate collision. The asscher is the most rigorously geometric shape in jewellery, all straight lines and right angles cut in concentric squares. The setting is the opposite, a vine that crosses, opens and closes with no straight line anywhere in it.

Most asscher rings double down on the geometry, which is the safe choice and produces very handsome, very severe rings. This one does not. The twist softens the whole object and makes the hard square outline of the centre read as intentional rather than cold. It is the design for someone who loves the asscher shape but does not want an obviously Art Deco ring.

If you want the geometry unbroken, our channel set baguette and engraved leaf asscher rings are better suited. This one has a different character entirely and we would rather steer you correctly than sell you the wrong ring.

How the twist is built

The band splits into two strands as it approaches the head. The strands cross over each other twice on each side before they meet the setting, and the gaps between crossings are left genuinely open, so light passes right through the shoulder. That openness is what stops a twisted band from looking like a rope, which is a heavier and quite different effect.

Micropave runs along the visible upper surfaces of both strands. Because the strands turn as they cross, the pave turns with them, which means the line of light moves around the shoulder rather than running flat along it. That is why a twisted pave band catches the eye differently from a straight one.

The cathedral head

The setting rises on arms that sweep up from the shoulders, lifting the stone above the twist. This matters practically. A twisted band is a busy piece of metalwork, and if the stone sat down inside it the two would fight. Raising the head separates them so the eye reads the centre first and the shoulders second.

It also lets more light into the pavilion from the sides, which is worth having in a step cut, where light entering from below shows as depth.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad clean blocks rather than sparkling, so it contrasts with the brilliant cut accents on the shoulders instead of competing with them.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, and the accents are Colorless and VVS too. A step cut has large open facets you look straight through, so this grade is not optional.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. The twist is quite decorative, so at 2 carat the shoulders can lead. From 3 carat upward the stone clearly dominates, which is what most people want.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, where the warm strands separate visibly from the white pave and the twist is easiest to read. That is the strongest version of this design. White gold merges strands and stones into one continuous ribbon of light, cleaner but less legible as a twist. Rose gold suits the botanical character particularly well. Silver is the most affordable route. 10K is the hardest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest, and on fine crossing strands we would gently steer you toward 14K or 10K. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast the split shank, true the crossings by hand so the openings are even, set each accent along the turning strands, then set the centre and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Setting pave on a surface that curves in two directions is slower than setting it flat, and polishing between the openings has to be done from both sides. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, worked through the open gaps from both sides. Dirt collects where the strands cross, so pay attention there. Clean under the centre too, since a step cut shows anything trapped below. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Not perfectly. The twist gives the shoulders an uneven lower profile, so a straight band leaves small gaps. A contoured or chevron band fits properly, and many people wear this ring alone.

Can it be resized? Within a limited range. The strands and their pave run well down the shoulders, so there is less plain metal to work with than on a simple band. Please tell us your size carefully.

Are the open gaps a weak point? No. Two crossing strands brace each other, and a split shank of this type is structurally sound. The gaps are also what keeps the ring light on the finger.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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