Asscher Cut Moissanite Ring with Spaced Accents and Twisted Leaf Links in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in four claws on a slim band whose shoulders carry a few individually set round accents, spaced well apart, with small twisted leaf shaped links of metal running between them. It is the most sparing of our asscher designs. There are only a handful of accent stones on the entire ring.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Why spaced rather than pave

Pave puts as many stones as possible into the metal so the shoulder reads as one continuous field of light. This ring does the opposite. Each accent is set on its own with a clear run of polished metal on either side, so you see individual stones with gaps between them rather than a bright line.

The effect is quieter and, at close range, more legible. You can count the stones. On a busy hand it does not compete with anything, and it never reads as an attempt to look like more diamonds than there are, which is a criticism people fairly make of dense pave.

It is also the more practical construction. There is less metal beading to wear away and fewer stones to check, and cleaning is trivial because there is nowhere for dirt to hide.

The twisted leaf links

Between the accents the band is not left plain. Small pieces of metal, twisted and shaped like a leaf or a bud, sit in the gaps. They join one stone to the next so the shoulder reads as a growing stem rather than as a row of stones with holes in it.

That detail is what makes this ring work. Widely spaced stones on a bare band can look unfinished, as though something fell out. The links resolve that. They also mean the ring has visual interest even in low light, when the stones are not doing anything.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad blocks rather than sparkling.

Setting a rigorously geometric stone above an organic shoulder is a deliberate contrast, and with so few accents the centre is never in any doubt. This is a solitaire that happens to have decorated shoulders, not a ring where the shoulders share the work.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity. A step cut has large open facets you look straight through, so the grade matters more than it would in a brilliant. The accents are Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. Because the shoulders are so sparing, this design carries a large centre better than most. At 4 or 5 carat it reads as a serious solitaire with a quiet botanical detail.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which is the right choice for this design, because the leaf links are metal rather than stones and gold is the only finish that makes them read clearly as gold leaves against the white accents. Rose gold does the same in a softer key. White gold makes links and stones blend into one another, which is cleaner but loses the botanical idea. Silver is the most affordable route and reads close to white gold. 10K is the hardest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast the band with its links, form and finish each leaf, set the accents one at a time with their spacing checked by eye, then set the centre and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Even spacing is the whole point of this design, so it is checked rather than assumed. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. This is one of the easiest of our rings to clean, since the stones are separated and there is nothing enclosed. Do clean under the centre, because a step cut shows anything trapped below. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Reasonably. The band is slim and the accents are low, though the leaf links give the profile a little texture. A straight band sits well enough for most people, and a contoured band sits perfectly.

Can it be resized? Yes, comfortably. The base of the shank is plain and the accents stop well short of it. This is one of our easier rings to resize.

Are so few accent stones a compromise? No, it is a choice. If you want a shoulder that reads as a continuous line of light, our pave and channel set asscher rings do that properly. This ring is for someone who wants the stones counted rather than massed.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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