Asscher Cut Moissanite Smooth Bezel Ring with Flat Band in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in a plain polished bezel on a flat band, with no beading, no engraving and no accent stones anywhere. This is the most minimal ring we make in this shape, and everything that could have been added has been deliberately left off.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

What is not on this ring

No milgrain. No pave. No hidden halo. No engraving. No split shank, no twist, no cathedral. The bezel rim is a single clean band of polished metal and the shank is a flat strip that runs straight into it.

We are listing what is absent because that is the design. A ring like this only works if nothing is competing with the stone, and any addition would have made it a different and busier ring. If you want decoration, we make plenty of asscher rings that have it, and they are better choices for you than this one.

What you get instead is proportion. There is nothing to look at except the relationship between a square stone, a square rim and a flat band, so those three things have to be right. That is where the work went.

Why a bezel suits a step cut

Claws are the usual answer, and on a brilliant they disappear into the sparkle. On a step cut they do not. An asscher reads as a square because of its straight edges, and a claw sitting on a straight edge interrupts the line your eye is following.

A bezel does the opposite. It repeats the outline. The rim traces every straight side and every cropped corner, so the setting agrees with the stone instead of arguing with it. That is why the earliest asscher rings, from the 1900s and 1910s, were so often bezel or collet set.

It is also the most secure setting there is. The corners of a square cut are its weak point and here they are covered by metal. Nothing catches on knitwear, nothing bends, and there is nothing to have checked at a jeweller.

The honest tradeoff is that a bezel covers the outer edge of the stone. A bezel set asscher looks slightly smaller than the same stone held in claws, and slightly less light enters from the sides. We would rather you knew that now.

How this compares with our other bezel asscher rings

The Milgrain Bezel ring has the same construction with a beaded rim and a slim tapered band. It reads antique.

The Double Rail Eternity ring has a plain rim but a wide band with a full circle of channel pave. It is the most substantial and the most sparkling.

This one is the plainest of the three and the least expensive, and it is not a lesser version of either. It is the one to choose if what you actually want is a stone and a band.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad clean blocks rather than sparkling.

With no accents anywhere, the stone is the entire ring, so its quality matters more here than on any other design we make. Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity. A step cut has large open facets you look straight through, so anything less would show.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. This design carries a large stone particularly well, because there is nothing else on the ring to be out of scale with it.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which gives the strongest contrast between the warm rim and the white stone and makes the square outline read most clearly. White gold makes rim and stone merge into a single bright object, which is the cleaner and more modern reading. Rose gold is quietly unusual on something this severe. Silver is the most affordable route and, on a design with no stone setting labour beyond the bezel, gives you a genuinely good ring for very little. 10K is the hardest and keeps a flat polished surface crisp longest. 14K is the everyday balance. 18K is the richest and softest, and a plain polished surface in 18K will pick up fine marks with wear, which many people come to prefer. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We form the band, make the bezel to your stone, close it, then file and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. On a ring with no decoration the polish is the finish, so it takes longer than you would expect. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. This is the easiest of our rings to clean, since there is nothing to trap dirt. Do clean the underside of the bezel, because a step cut shows anything sitting below it. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. A jewellery cloth restores the polish on the flat surfaces. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, perfectly. Flat parallel edges and a bezel that does not spread sideways. This is the easiest of all our rings to stack.

Can it be resized? Yes, easily. No stones in the shank and no pattern to interrupt.

Is it too plain? That is a real question and only you can answer it. It is quiet on the hand. If you are unsure, it is worth knowing that a plain bezel is the design people most often say they are still happy with after ten years, precisely because there is no detail to go out of fashion.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. On this ring in particular, that grade is doing all the work.

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