Asscher Cut Moissanite Plain Open Crossover Twist Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in four claws on a band that separates into two smooth polished strands and crosses them over one another at each shoulder, with open daylight showing through the gaps. There are no stones on the band at all. It is the crossover idea worked entirely in metal.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

A twist with no stones on it

Almost every twisted or crossover band on the market carries pave along the strands, because sparkle is what most people expect from the shape. We make that version too. This is the other one.

Stripped of stones, the twist has to work purely as form, which means the strands have to be genuinely well shaped. Where the crossings sit, how wide the openings are, how the two strands taper as they approach the head, all of it is visible with nothing to distract from it. There is nowhere to hide on a ring like this.

The practical case for it is strong. Nothing can loosen, nothing needs checking, and there is no pave to lose its beading after ten years of wear. It is one of the most robust rings we make, and one of the easiest to look after.

How this compares with our other crossover asscher rings

We make six bands built on a crossing or twisting shank and they are genuinely different rings, not finishes of one design.

The Twisted Vine Pave ring carries micropave along the full length of both strands, with open gaps and a cathedral head. It is the most decorated.

The Milgrain Twist ring is a closed twist with pave bordered by beading, which reads antique rather than organic.

The Open Crossover ring has a short run of pave on each strand near the head only, bare for the rest of the shank.

This one has no stones on the band whatsoever. It is the quietest of the six and the most affordable, and if what appeals to you is the shape rather than the sparkle, it is the honest choice.

The open gaps

The crossings are left genuinely open rather than filled, so you can see through the shoulder. That is what separates a crossover band from a rope: a rope is solid and reads as texture, whereas an open crossover reads as two distinct strands doing something.

It also keeps the ring light on the finger, which matters more than people expect on a design with a substantial head.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad clean blocks rather than sparkling.

With no accents anywhere, the centre carries the entire ring, so its quality is doing all the work. Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity. A step cut has large open facets you look straight through, so nothing less would do.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. Because the band is slender and unadorned, this design carries a large centre particularly well and there is nothing to be out of scale with it.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, where the polished strands catch light along their length and the crossings read clearly as two separate pieces of metal. White gold is cooler and more modern, and the twist reads as a single bright ribbon rather than two strands. Rose gold is soft and rather lovely on a curved form like this. Silver is the most affordable route, and on a design with no stone setting labour it gives you a great deal of ring for the money. 10K is the hardest and holds a crisp polished edge longest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We form both strands, true the crossings by hand so the openings match on each side, set the stone, then file and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Polishing is the whole finish on a ring like this and it has to be done from inside the openings as well as outside. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush worked through the open gaps from both sides. There are no stones to worry about, so this is among the easiest of our rings to clean. Do clean under the centre, since a step cut shows anything trapped below. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Also in this family

Other crossover and twisted band designs we make, so you can see the whole choice in one place:

• Twisted Vine Hidden Halo, one strand paved and one plain, shoulder length, with a hidden halo
• Full Circumference Twist, one strand paved and one plain, running the whole way round, no hidden halo

We would rather point you to a different ring of ours than sell you the wrong one. If none of these is quite right, tell us what you are after and we will say so plainly.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Not perfectly. The crossing strands give the shoulders an uneven lower profile, so a straight band leaves small gaps. A contoured band fits properly. Many people wear this one alone.

Can it be resized? Yes, within a reasonable range. There are no stones in the shank, which helps a great deal, though the crossings must stay symmetrical so we would rather size it correctly first time.

Are the open gaps a weak point? No. Two crossing strands brace one another and the join at the head is solid. This is structurally sound and, with no stones to lose, arguably the most durable asscher ring we make.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. On this ring in particular, that grade is doing all the work.

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