Asscher Cut Moissanite Pave Bezel Ring with Hidden Halo in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite held in a full bezel whose outer wall is itself set with a row of micropave, bordered above and below with fine milgrain, with a hidden halo beneath the stone and a tall plain split shank. The stones are set into the side of the setting, not around it.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Pave in the bezel wall

This is an unusual piece of construction and it is worth explaining, because from directly above the ring looks like a plain bezel.

On a normal bezel the rim is a solid wall of metal. On this one that wall has been made deep enough to carry a row of small stones set into its vertical face, running the whole way round the octagon, with a line of milgrain beading along the top edge and another along the bottom.

Look down at it and you see a clean square bezel. Look at it from any angle off vertical and the rim lights up. It is a ring that changes considerably depending on where you are standing.

Setting stones into a vertical surface that turns eight corners is genuinely difficult work. Each stone has to sit at the same depth in a wall that is curving away, and the two milgrain lines have to stay parallel around every corner.

The hidden halo as well

Beneath the stone, around the basket, sits a second ring of small stones facing outward. Between that and the paved rim, this ring has two separate bands of light below the level of the centre stone and none above it.

That is the whole idea. All the decoration is at or below the girdle, so the top surface stays as clean as a plain bezel while the profile is as elaborate as a halo ring.

How this compares with our other bezel asscher rings

We make six bezels in this shape and no two are alike.

The Smooth Bezel has a plain rim and a flat plain band. The most minimal.

The Milgrain Bezel has a beaded rim, no stones. Antique.

The Double Rail Eternity has a plain rim and a wide band with a full circle of channel pave.

The Bezel Halo puts a pave halo outside the rim, so you see the halo from above.

This one is the only bezel with stones set into the rim itself. If you want a bezel that reads as plain from above but is not plain at all, this is the one, and none of the others do that.

Why a bezel suits a step cut

Claws sit on the straight edges of a square stone and interrupt the lines that make the shape read as square. A bezel repeats the outline instead, and it protects the corners, which are the weak point of any square cut. Nothing catches and nothing bends.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad blocks rather than sparkling.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, and every accent in the rim and the hidden halo is Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. A bezel covers the outer edge of the stone, so a bezel set asscher looks slightly smaller than the same stone in claws. If you are between sizes, take the larger.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which suits this design particularly well because the two milgrain lines and the solid top edge of the rim all read clearly against the white stones set between them. That layering is the point of the ring. White gold is cleaner and more modern but the rim detail becomes very subtle. Rose gold is warm and unusual. Silver is the most affordable route. 10K is the hardest and keeps both the beading and the fine rim setting crisp longest. 14K is the everyday balance. 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We build the deep bezel, set the row of stones into its outer wall, raise milgrain along both edges, set the hidden halo around the basket, then close the bezel to your stone and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size. This is one of the slowest settings we make, almost entirely because of the rim. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Brush around the rim horizontally and underneath the stone, because both the rim pave and the hidden halo sit where hand cream collects and both stop working once dulled. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Do not use abrasive polish, which flattens milgrain. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Also in this family

Other bezel designs we make, so you can see the whole choice in one place:

• High Set Bezel, a plain bezel lifted on a rounded open arch, the most architectural

Other designs with a hidden halo we make, so you can see the whole choice in one place:

• Twisted Vine Hidden Halo, one strand paved and one plain, shoulder length, with a hidden halo
• Fine Pave Hidden Halo, half coverage scalloped pave on an ultra fine band with a hidden halo, the lightest and easiest to resize
• Full Eternity Pave, pave the whole way round plus a hidden halo, the most sparkle but barely resizable
• Three Quarter Pave, pave around three quarters of the band with a hidden halo collar, the middle option
• Plain Band Hidden Halo, a plain rounded band with the hidden halo as the only decoration, the cheapest way into one

We would rather point you to a different ring of ours than sell you the wrong one. If none of these is quite right, tell us what you are after and we will say so plainly.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, well. The shank is plain and the setting does not spread sideways at the base, so a straight band meets it cleanly. The setting sits high, which actually helps.

Can it be resized? Yes, comfortably. There are no stones in the shank at all.

Why put stones where they are hard to see? Because the ring is seen by other people from the side far more often than you see it from above. It is the same reasoning behind a hidden halo, applied to the rim as well.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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