Asscher Cut Moissanite Vintage Milgrain Marquise Panel Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in four claws on a fully worked antique style band, where marquise accents sit inside milgrain bordered lozenge panels and alternate with small bezel set rounds, the pattern repeating all the way round the finger.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

The most decorated asscher we make

This band is not a plain shank with a detail applied to it. Every part of it is worked. Each marquise sits in its own pointed oval panel with a beaded milgrain border drawn around it, each round sits in a small bezel between the panels, and the metal between them carries fine engraved lines.

The alternating rhythm is what makes it read as antique rather than merely busy. Long marquise, small round, long marquise, small round, with a metal frame drawn around each one. That is exactly how Edwardian and early Deco bands were built, and it is why this design looks like something inherited rather than something bought.

The pattern continues round the underside of the band rather than stopping at the shoulders, so the ring looks the same from every angle.

Marquise accents rather than rounds

Most decorated bands use rounds throughout because they are cheaper and quicker to set. A marquise is a pointed oval, so it fills a long panel the way a round never can, and its two points give the panel a direction that carries your eye along the band toward the centre.

Marquise accents are also harder to set. Both points must be protected or they chip, which is precisely what the milgrain bordered panel is doing. It is decoration that is also structure.

The milgrain

Milgrain is a row of tiny beads raised along an edge with a knurled wheel, from the French for a thousand grains. Here it borders every panel individually rather than running as a single line down the band, so there is a great deal of it and it has to be even on all of them or the eye picks out the odd one immediately.

It softens every edge on the ring. That is why a heavily worked band like this does not look hard, despite the geometric stone sitting on top of it.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad clean blocks rather than sparkling.

The pairing is historically right. The asscher was patented by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam in 1902, and bands of exactly this kind were being made in the same decades. Stone and setting come from the same moment.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, and every accent, marquise and round alike, is Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. Because the band is so busy, a larger centre keeps the hierarchy clear. At 2 carat the band competes with the stone, which some people like, but 3 carat and above is the safer proportion.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which is the strongest version by a distance, because milgrain and engraving both depend on shadow and gold gives the deepest shadow. Every panel border reads clearly. White gold is more period accurate, since originals were platinum, and gives a cooler, crisper result where the accents and the metal blend more. Rose gold is warm and unusual. Silver is the most affordable way into a fully worked band and takes milgrain well. 10K is the hardest and keeps the beading sharp longest, which matters on a ring with this much fine detail. 14K is the everyday balance. 18K is the richest but softest and the beading will soften soonest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast the band, set each marquise and each round, raise the milgrain around every panel by hand, cut the engraved lines between them, then set the centre and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. This is one of the slowest rings we make, because the milgrain alone is applied panel by panel. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. This ring needs more frequent cleaning than most, because milgrain and engraved lines trap hand cream and both stop reading once they are filled. Brush across the beading rather than scrubbing along it. Clean under the centre too, since a step cut shows anything trapped below. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Do not use abrasive polish, which flattens milgrain. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Not perfectly. The panels give the band an uneven surface, so a plain band meets it at the high points only. A milgrain edged or contoured band suits it better. Honestly, this ring is decorated enough to be worn alone.

Can it be resized? Only within a small range. The pattern runs the full circumference, so there is no plain section to work with and any join would interrupt a panel. Please take the sizing seriously and we will help.

Are the marquise points secure? Yes. Each one is enclosed by its panel frame, which covers both points. That is safer than a claw set marquise.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

Pay over time with Affirm, Shop Pay or Klarna — 0% APR options available at checkout. All major cards and PayPal accepted.