Asscher Cut Moissanite High Set Bezel Ring with Open Arch in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in a plain polished bezel, lifted high above the finger on a rounded band that arches open beneath the stone. No accent stones, no beading, no engraving. The interest is entirely in the profile.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

A high setting, not a low one

This is the distinction that matters, and it is invisible from directly above.

Our Smooth Bezel ring sits the stone low and flat against the finger on a flat band. It is the minimal, unobtrusive option.

This ring does the opposite. The shank rises on each side and arches, lifting the bezel well clear of the finger with an open space beneath it. Seen from the side, the stone appears to float above the band on a slender bridge.

The practical consequences are real in both directions. A raised setting lets light enter the pavilion from underneath, which in a step cut adds noticeable depth: the hall of mirrors effect needs light coming in from below to work properly, and a stone sitting flat against a finger is starved of it. A high setting also lets a wedding band tuck underneath.

Against that, a raised stone catches on things more readily than a flush one, and it sits taller on the hand. If you want a bezel because you want something you never notice, our low flat version is the better answer and we would rather say so.

The rounded band

The shank is round in section rather than flat, which softens the whole ring and suits the arch. A flat band rising into a high setting looks like scaffolding; a rounded one looks like it grew that way.

It is also more comfortable for most people over a long day, because there are no edges.

How this compares with our other bezel asscher rings

We make six bezels in this shape and every one differs.

Smooth Bezel plain rim, flat band, low profile. The most minimal.

This one plain rim, rounded band, high open arch. The most architectural.

Milgrain Bezel beaded rim, slim band, antique.

Double Rail Eternity plain rim, wide band with a full circle of channel pave.

Bezel Halo pave halo set outside the rim.

Pave Bezel stones set into the rim wall itself, plus a hidden halo.

Why a bezel suits a step cut

Claws sit on the straight edges of a square stone and interrupt the lines that make it read as square. A bezel repeats the outline instead, tracing every straight side and every cropped corner. It also protects the corners, which are the weak point of any square cut.

The honest tradeoff is that a bezel covers the outer edge of the stone, so a bezel set asscher looks slightly smaller than the same stone in claws.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad clean blocks rather than sparkling.

With nothing else on the ring, the centre carries all of it. Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. A raised setting makes any stone look larger than the same stone set flat, simply because you see its depth as well as its face.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, where the arch reads as a clear warm shape against the light passing under the stone, which is the whole point of the profile. White gold is cooler and more sculptural. Rose gold is unusual and rather good here. Silver is the most affordable route and, with no stone setting labour at all beyond the bezel, gives you a great deal of ring for the money. 10K is the hardest and the sensible choice for a raised setting in daily wear. 14K is the everyday balance. 18K is the richest but softest, and on a design with an open arch we would gently note that a softer alloy is more easily distorted by a hard knock. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We form the arched shank, make the bezel to your stone, join and true the arch so it is symmetrical from both sides, close the bezel, then polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. On a plain ring the polish is the entire finish, and the inside of the arch has to be polished as carefully as the outside because you can see straight through it. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Clean through the arch and under the bezel, which is where dirt collects and where, on a raised setting, it is most visible against the light. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, and better than on most rings, because the arch lifts the setting clear and a band can sit right under the stone rather than stopping short of it.

Can it be resized? Yes, easily. No stones in the shank at all.

Does a high setting catch on things? More than a low one, yes. The bezel itself is snag free because it has no claws, but the ring sits tall and will knock against door frames and pockets in a way a flat ring does not. That is the honest cost of the profile.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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