Asscher Cut Moissanite Full Bezel Engagement Ring with Open Gallery and Plain Band in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A square Asscher moissanite enclosed in a smooth wall of metal, lifted on an open gallery above a plain band. The bezel follows the clipped corners of the stone, so the outline is a crisp octagon. Look down into it and you see the stepped squares of the cut going deep into the stone.

At a glance

• Center stone: Asscher step cut moissanite, colorless, VVS clarity
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat center stone
• Certificate: IGI grading report for the center stone, included free
• Setting: Full bezel with clipped corners on an open gallery
• Band: Plain round band, approximately 1.7 mm
• Metals: 925 sterling silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Ring sizes: 1.5 to 13, including half sizes
• Made: To order by hand in Surat, India

An Asscher wrapped in a clean metal frame

An Asscher is a square step cut with its corners trimmed off, and its charm is the hall of mirrors effect in the middle, where the facets form smaller and smaller squares. A full bezel suits it well. The thin rim of polished metal runs all the way around the girdle and mirrors the clipped corners exactly, turning the ring into one neat geometric shape.

The side view in photo seven shows the part most people miss. The bezel is not sitting flat on the band. It is held up on an open gallery, with the shank rising into two supports on each side and a clear gap beneath the stone. That lets light reach the pavilion from below and keeps the ring from looking heavy.

The band is a plain rounded shank of about 1.7 mm, the size noted on the measurement card in photo four. There are no claws and no side stones, so nothing catches on fabric and there is very little to clean around.

Photo three is useful if you are unsure about size: it shows three of these rings with different center stones worn side by side. The ring is also shown on its own in white and rose gold.

Why the asscher cut

The asscher cut is a square step cut with deeply cropped corners, first cut in 1902 and the defining shape of art deco jewelry. Looking into one is like looking down a bright well. It is one of the shapes we are asked for most often, and it is cut here to the same proportions we would use for a diamond of the same outline.

How this ring differs from our other asscher moissanite rings

This Asscher bezel design is also listed in three further photo sets with smaller and larger center stones, and the bezel, gallery and band are the same in each. Against our other Asscher rings, it is the full bezel on a plain round band, while our tapered Asscher bezel ring uses a flat band and our four claw Asscher solitaires leave the stone edges open.

What moissanite actually is

Moissanite is silicon carbide, a crystal first identified by the French chemist Henri Moissan in 1893 in fragments of the Canyon Diablo meteorite in Arizona. He won the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1906, and the mineral was named after him. Natural moissanite is vanishingly rare, so every moissanite sold as a gemstone today is grown in a laboratory.

Here is what that means for a ring you will wear every day:

• Hardness 9.25 on the Mohs scale. Only diamond and a handful of laboratory materials are harder. It will not scratch from ordinary wear, and it is well suited to a ring worn daily for decades.
• Refractive index of 2.65 to 2.69, higher than diamond at 2.42. More light is bent back to the eye, which is why a moissanite reads noticeably brighter than a diamond of the same size under the same light.
• Dispersion of 0.104, against 0.044 for diamond. Dispersion is the splitting of white light into spectral colors. This is the origin of the rainbow fire that moissanite is known for, most visible in direct sun or under spotlights.
• Doubly refractive. Under strong magnification a gemologist can see facet edges doubled. To the naked eye it looks like extra brilliance.

Moissanite is not cubic zirconia and it is not glass. Cubic zirconia is far softer at 8 to 8.5 on the Mohs scale, it clouds and abrades within a few years of daily wear, and it has little resale value. Moissanite keeps its polish and its brightness indefinitely. It is also not a diamond, laboratory grown or mined, and we never describe it as one. It is its own gemstone with its own optical signature, and it is chosen by people who want maximum presence on the hand for a fraction of the cost of a diamond of the same size.

Every stone we set is graded colorless, the top color band for moissanite, and VVS clarity, which means any inclusions are extremely difficult to find even under ten times magnification. Nothing is visible to the naked eye.

IGI certificate included free

The center moissanite in this ring comes with a grading report from IGI, the International Gemological Institute, one of the largest independent gem laboratories in the world, with offices in Antwerp, New York, Mumbai and Surat. There is no extra charge for it on any metal or any carat weight. The report records the shape and cut, the measurements, the carat weight, the color and the clarity of the center stone, and it identifies the stone in writing as moissanite, so you know exactly what you are buying and you have an independent document to keep with the ring for insurance and for valuation.

We include it because a stone this bright is sometimes mistaken for a diamond, and we would rather you had the laboratory's word than only ours. The report arrives in the box with the ring.

Choosing your metal

This ring is made to order in ten metals, so the version you choose is the version we build. There is no plating over a base metal and no filled or bonded gold anywhere in the range.

• 925 sterling silver is the most affordable way to own the design. It is 92.5 percent pure silver, bright white, and it takes a high polish. Silver is softer than gold and it will pick up fine surface marks with daily wear, which most people come to like. It can also tarnish, and a soft polishing cloth brings it straight back.
• 10K gold is 41.7 percent pure gold. It is the hardest and the most scratch resistant of the three gold alloys, which makes it a sensible choice for hands that work. The color is a little paler than 14K.
• 14K gold is 58.5 percent pure gold and it is what most engagement rings sold in the United States are made from. It balances a warm, convincing color against real everyday durability.
• 18K gold is 75 percent pure gold. It has the deepest, richest color and the most weight in the hand. It is also the softest of the three, so it marks a little more readily.

Yellow gold is gold alloyed with silver and copper. Rose gold takes more copper, which gives the warm pink tone and also makes it the hardest of the three colors. White gold is alloyed with palladium or nickel and then finished with rhodium plating, which is what gives it that bright white face. Rhodium wears thin over time and wants redoing roughly every one to two years, which any jeweler can do quickly and cheaply. Every gold ring is stamped with its karat mark.

Choosing your carat size

This ring is offered in 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat center stones. Carat is a unit of weight, not of width. Moissanite is lighter than diamond, so it is cut and sold to the size of the equivalent diamond, which means a 2 carat asscher moissanite measures across the face the same as a 2 carat asscher diamond would. The photographs may show a different size from the one you choose, and the version you select is the one we make.

• 2 carat is the most chosen size. It is unmistakably a statement stone and still sits comfortably under a glove or a coat sleeve.
• 3 carat is a clear step up in presence and photographs beautifully. This is where most people land when they want the ring to be the first thing anyone notices.
• 4 carat covers the finger generously and suits longer fingers and larger ring sizes particularly well.
• 5 carat is a red carpet stone. It is the size people ask about across a room.

If you are between sizes, order the smaller center stone in a richer metal rather than the larger stone in the cheapest one. A well made ring in 14K or 18K gold ages far better than an oversized stone on a thin shank.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run jewelry workshop in Surat, in Gujarat, India. Surat is where roughly nine out of every ten diamonds in the world are cut and polished, and the bench skills that grew up around that trade are what this ring is built on. We are not a dropshipper and we do not hold finished stock. When your order comes in, a goldsmith casts your metal in your size, a setter places every stone by hand under a microscope, and the piece is polished, checked and photographed before it leaves us.

Making takes ten to fourteen working days for most orders. Shipping is free worldwide and fully insured, and it is normally three to seven working days once the ring has left the bench. Buying direct from the bench is the reason a ring like this costs what it does here rather than several times more on a high street.

Caring for your ring

Moissanite attracts skin oil and hand cream the same way diamond does, and a film of it is the single most common reason a ring looks dull. Soak the ring for ten minutes in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap, brush gently behind and underneath the stone with a soft toothbrush, rinse and pat dry with a lint free cloth. Once every two weeks is plenty.

Take the ring off before the gym, gardening, swimming pools and hot tubs, and before using bleach or oven cleaner. Chlorine attacks the alloys in gold over time and it will do nothing good to sterling silver. Store it on its own rather than loose in a box with other pieces. Have the claws checked by a jeweler once a year, which takes two minutes and is usually free. White gold will want its rhodium refreshed every one to two years.

Questions people ask about this ring

Are the other rings in the three ring photo included?

No. You receive one Asscher bezel engagement ring. The photo shows the same design in several sizes for comparison, and those rings are sold separately.

Does a bezel reduce the sparkle?

Very little. The open gallery under the bezel still lets light into the stone from the sides and below, and step cuts are more about bright flashes than fine sparkle.

Is a bezel setting good for an active lifestyle?

Yes. The metal rim protects the whole edge of the stone, including the delicate corners, and there are no claws to snag.

Does this ring come with a certificate?

Yes. The center moissanite comes with an IGI grading report, included free with every order. It records the shape, measurements, carat weight, color and clarity of the stone and identifies it as moissanite. It is useful for insurance and for peace of mind, and it arrives in the box with the ring.

What color and clarity is the moissanite in this ring?

Every center stone is graded colorless with VVS clarity. Colorless is the top color band for moissanite, and VVS means inclusions are extremely difficult to see even under ten times magnification. The grades are the same on every metal and every carat weight, and on every ring we cut and set in our own workshop.

Will people be able to tell it is not a diamond?

Not by looking. Both stones are colorless and brilliantly cut, and at arm length they read the same. In direct sunlight moissanite throws more rainbow colored fire than a diamond does, which some people love and which is the only tell most people would ever notice. Telling the two apart with any certainty needs a thermal or electrical conductivity tester, or a loupe and the training to read facet doubling.

Does moissanite get cloudy or lose its sparkle over time?

No. At 9.25 on the Mohs scale it is one of the hardest gem materials there is, and it does not abrade, cloud or dull with wear the way cubic zirconia does. What makes any ring look dull is a film of skin oil, soap and hand cream on the underside of the stone. A few minutes in warm soapy water with a soft brush restores it completely.

What ring sizes can I order?

We make sizes 1.5 to 13, including every half size. Choose your size at checkout. If you are unsure, measure a ring that already fits the correct finger, or ask a local jeweler to size you, and remember that fingers run slightly larger in hot weather and late in the day.

Can the ring be resized later?

In most cases yes. Any jeweler can work on a plain section of shank. Resizing is harder where the band is set with stones all the way round, and moving more than about two sizes in either direction is better done by remaking the shank. Contact us first and we will tell you exactly what is possible for your ring.

How long will it take to arrive?

Every ring is made to order in our workshop in Surat. Allow ten to fourteen working days for making, plus three to seven working days for insured worldwide shipping. If you have a proposal date, tell us when you order and we will confirm whether we can meet it.

Is the metal solid, or is it plated?

It is solid throughout. 925 sterling silver is 92.5 percent pure silver, and the gold options are solid 10K, 14K or 18K alloy stamped with the karat mark. Nothing in this range is gold plated, gold filled or gold bonded. White gold carries a rhodium finish on the surface, which is standard for all white gold everywhere and is refreshed every year or two.

Do you offer engraving?

Yes, and there is no charge for it. Tell us the wording when you order and we will engrave the inside of the shank. Most people choose a date, a set of initials or a short phrase. Allow up to about twenty five characters.

What is your returns policy?

Returns are accepted within thirty days of delivery on an unworn ring in its original packaging. Because every piece is cut, cast and set to order, engraved rings and rings made to a non standard specification are handled case by case. Write to us and we will sort it out.

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