Asscher Cut Moissanite Engraved Vine Ring with Flush Set Diamonds in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in four ball claws on a wide flat band carrying a dense leafy scroll, with small round stones flush set into the engraved pattern itself so they sit among the leaves rather than in a separate row. Milgrain runs along both edges.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Stones set into the engraving

This is the distinguishing feature and it is genuinely uncommon.

On almost every ring that combines engraving with stones, the two occupy separate zones: a row of pave down the middle and engraving either side of it, or engraved shoulders and a set head. They coexist but they do not mix.

Here the stones are placed inside the scroll. Each one is flush set into the metal at a point where the pattern opens out, so it sits where a berry or a bud would sit on the branch. The engraving runs around and behind them rather than stopping.

The effect is that the ring reads as one decorated surface rather than as engraving plus stones. It is harder to lay out, because the pattern has to be designed around the stone positions from the start, and a stone placed where the scroll is dense simply looks like a mistake.

Please read this if you are comparing our engraved bands

We make six asscher rings with engraved or worked metal and they look similar in a thumbnail. They are not the same ring, and the differences are easy to state.

Engraved Leaf is a slim knife edge band with a simple leaf and stem motif on the shoulders only. No accent stones. The lightest and quietest.

Delicate Vine is a slim rounded band with a small sparse twig at each shoulder holding two or three tiny flush set stones. Mostly plain polished metal.

Dense Acanthus carries flowing fine engraving over the whole band with no plain background showing anywhere. No accent stones. The most densely worked.

Open Scroll uses larger, more separated C scrolls with plain metal visible between them, framed top and bottom by heavy milgrain rails. More graphic and legible than the acanthus.

Engraved Vine with Diamonds is a wide flat band with a dense leafy scroll that has small flush set stones worked into the pattern itself. The only engraved band of the six with stones in the engraving.

Why the pattern is more open here

The scroll on this ring is deliberately less dense than on our Acanthus band. That is not a lesser version of the same thing, it is a requirement: fine engraving reads through shadow and set stones read through light, and if the pattern were as tight as the acanthus the stones would flatten it out.

Opening the scroll gives each stone a clear space to sit in and lets both techniques survive on one surface. It is the compromise that makes the combination work.

The wide flat band

The band is flat and broader than our other engraved designs, which is what provides the surface area for both the scroll and the stones. On a slim rounded band there would be nowhere to put either without crowding.

It also means this ring has presence. It is not a delicate design and is not trying to be.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad blocks rather than sparkling.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, and every flush set accent is Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. The band is broad and busy, so 3 carat and above keeps the centre clearly in charge.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which this design needs for the same reason all our engraved rings do: the pattern exists as shadow, and gold gives the deepest shadow. Here it does a second job as well, because the contrast between warm engraved metal and small white stones is what lets you see the stones as separate objects within the pattern. In white gold the two merge and the ring loses much of its point. Rose gold works nearly as well as yellow. Silver is the most affordable route. 10K is the hardest and keeps both engraving and flush settings crisp longest. 14K is the everyday balance. 18K is the richest and softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We lay out the stone positions first, cut the scroll around them, flush set each accent and burnish the metal over its girdle, raise the milgrain along both edges, then set the centre and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size. Engraving up to the edge of a set stone without chipping it is the difficult part and it cannot be rushed. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, worked across the cut lines. Engraving filled with hand cream stops reading, and on this ring that also dulls the stones sitting inside it. Clean under the centre too, since a step cut shows anything trapped below. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Never use abrasive polish. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Also in this family

Other engraved designs we make, so you can see the whole choice in one place:

• Tapered Wheat, a wheat and scroll motif on a band that narrows toward the head, no stones

We would rather point you to a different ring of ours than sell you the wrong one. If none of these is quite right, tell us what you are after and we will say so plainly.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, well. A flat band with straight parallel edges is one of the easier profiles to sit a second ring against.

Can it be resized? Within a moderate range. The pattern and stones concentrate on the upper half, which leaves us something to work with, though any join needs re-engraving to match.

Are flush set stones secure? Very. The metal is burnished over the girdle all the way round, so there is nothing standing proud to catch or bend. Flush setting is among the most secure ways to set a small stone.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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