Asscher Cut Moissanite Dense Acanthus Engraved Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in flat tab claws on a band engraved edge to edge with a flowing acanthus scroll, worked in fine relief with no plain metal showing anywhere, and bordered along both edges with milgrain. The pattern continues around the full circumference, including the underside. There are no accent stones.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Engraved everywhere

Most engraved bands decorate the shoulders and leave the rest plain, because the underside is against your finger and nobody sees it. This one does not stop.

The acanthus scroll runs the entire way round. Take the ring off and set it on a table and there is no blank face anywhere on it. That is a deliberately old fashioned decision, of a piece with how good antique rings were finished, and it is most of why this ring costs what it does.

The engraving is dense. The scrolls interlock so closely that there is essentially no background, which is what separates this from our Open Scroll ring, where the curls are larger and plain metal shows between them. Here the whole surface is texture.

Please read this if you are comparing our engraved bands

We make six asscher rings with engraved or worked metal and they look similar in a thumbnail. They are not the same ring, and the differences are easy to state.

Engraved Leaf is a slim knife edge band with a simple leaf and stem motif on the shoulders only. No accent stones. The lightest and quietest.

Delicate Vine is a slim rounded band with a small sparse twig at each shoulder holding two or three tiny flush set stones. Mostly plain polished metal.

Dense Acanthus carries flowing fine engraving over the whole band with no plain background showing anywhere. No accent stones. The most densely worked.

Open Scroll uses larger, more separated C scrolls with plain metal visible between them, framed top and bottom by heavy milgrain rails. More graphic and legible than the acanthus.

Engraved Vine with Diamonds is a wide flat band with a dense leafy scroll that has small flush set stones worked into the pattern itself. The only engraved band of the six with stones in the engraving.

Why no accent stones

Adding pave to a band worked this heavily would be a mistake, and we would rather explain the reasoning than let it look like an omission.

Fine engraving reads through shadow. Set stones read through light. Put them on the same surface and the stones win, the engraving flattens out, and you have paid for work you can no longer see. The rings in our range that combine the two, like the Engraved Vine, use a much more open pattern for exactly that reason.

It also means there is nothing here to loosen or lose. This is among the most durable rings we make.

The flat tab claws

The centre is held by four flat tabs rather than rounded claws, one at each cropped corner. A tab presents a clean straight edge to the eye, which agrees with the geometry of a step cut, and it keeps a low profile so the head does not tower over a band that is already visually busy.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad clean blocks rather than sparkling.

A still, geometric stone above a band of continuous movement is the whole balance of this ring. The centre is the only calm surface on it.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity. With no accents anywhere, the centre carries the ring and a step cut hides nothing.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. The band is busy, so we would lean toward 3 carat or above to keep the hierarchy clear.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, which this design genuinely requires. Engraving is visible only because of the shadow inside each cut line, and gold gives the deepest shadow. In white gold a densely engraved band reads as a slightly textured surface rather than as a pattern, and if the engraving is why you want this ring we would honestly steer you away from white. Rose gold works nearly as well as yellow. Silver shows it clearly and is the most affordable route. 10K is the hardest and keeps the cut lines crisp longest, which matters here more than on any other ring we make. 14K is the everyday balance. 18K is the richest and softest, and dense fine engraving will soften soonest in 18K. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast the band, cut the acanthus by hand around the entire circumference, raise the milgrain along both edges, set the stone, then finish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Engraving the underside takes as long as engraving the top and is the part nobody will ever compliment. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush, brushed across the cut lines rather than along them. This ring needs cleaning more often than a plain one: engraving filled with hand cream loses its shadow and the pattern simply disappears until it is cleaned out. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Never use abrasive polish, which rounds the cut edges and destroys fine engraving permanently. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Also in this family

Other engraved designs we make, so you can see the whole choice in one place:

• Tapered Wheat, a wheat and scroll motif on a band that narrows toward the head, no stones

We would rather point you to a different ring of ours than sell you the wrong one. If none of these is quite right, tell us what you are after and we will say so plainly.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, reasonably, since the band has straight parallel edges. A plain band beside it makes a strong contrast; a milgrain edged band suits it better.

Can it be resized? Only within a small range, and this is the honest limitation of the design. The pattern runs the full circumference, so any join interrupts it and has to be re-engraved. Please take the sizing seriously and we will help you get it right first time.

Will the engraving wear off? The high points soften over many years, particularly on the underside where it rubs. It can be recut. Choosing 10K or 14K rather than 18K slows it considerably.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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