Asscher Cut Moissanite Delicate Vine Ring with Flush Set Accents in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in four ball claws on a slim rounded band, with a small engraved twig at each shoulder carrying two or three tiny flush set stones among its leaves. Everything else is plain polished metal. It is the most understated ring in our asscher range that still has accent stones.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

A very small amount of decoration

The engraved twig occupies perhaps a centimetre at each shoulder. It is a slender branch with a few leaves, and set into it are two or three stones so small that from a distance you read them as points of light rather than as gemstones.

That is the whole ring. Beyond the twigs the band is plain, rounded and polished.

We are being precise about the scale because photographs mislead here. Shot close up, the twig looks like a substantial feature. On a hand, at conversational distance, this reads as a plain band with a hint of something at the shoulders. If you want the botanical idea to be obvious, our Marquise Leaf Cluster ring is considerably bolder and we would rather point you there.

Please read this if you are comparing our engraved bands

We make six asscher rings with engraved or worked metal and they look similar in a thumbnail. They are not the same ring, and the differences are easy to state.

Engraved Leaf is a slim knife edge band with a simple leaf and stem motif on the shoulders only. No accent stones. The lightest and quietest.

Delicate Vine is a slim rounded band with a small sparse twig at each shoulder holding two or three tiny flush set stones. Mostly plain polished metal.

Dense Acanthus carries flowing fine engraving over the whole band with no plain background showing anywhere. No accent stones. The most densely worked.

Open Scroll uses larger, more separated C scrolls with plain metal visible between them, framed top and bottom by heavy milgrain rails. More graphic and legible than the acanthus.

Engraved Vine with Diamonds is a wide flat band with a dense leafy scroll that has small flush set stones worked into the pattern itself. The only engraved band of the six with stones in the engraving.

Flush set stones

The accents are flush set, meaning each one is sunk into the metal so its table sits level with the surface, with no claws or beads standing above it. The metal is burnished over the girdle to hold it.

On a ring this delicate that is the right choice for two reasons. Nothing protrudes, so the band stays completely smooth to the touch and cannot snag. And a flush set stone reads as a bright point in the metal rather than as a mounted gem, which suits a design where the stones are meant to look like dew on a branch rather than like a setting.

The tradeoff is that a flush set stone sparkles less than a clawed one, because less light reaches its sides. That is accepted here deliberately.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad blocks rather than sparkling.

With so little competing with it, the centre completely dominates this ring. That is the point of choosing a design this restrained: you are buying a setting that gets out of the way.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, and the small accents are Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. This design carries a large stone very well, since nothing on the band argues with it.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, where the engraved twig reads clearly against the polished band and the tiny stones show as white points in gold. White gold makes the whole feature very subtle indeed, almost to the point of disappearing, which some people want and others would find disappointing. Rose gold suits a botanical motif particularly well at this small scale. Silver is the most affordable route. 10K is the hardest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We form the band, engrave the twig, cut a seat for each tiny stone and burnish the metal over it, set the centre, then polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Flush setting very small stones is fiddly work: the seat must be exact, because there are no claws to hide an error. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. This is one of the easiest rings we make to clean, since the surface is almost entirely smooth. Do brush the engraved twig, since the cut lines hold cream. Clean under the centre too, because a step cut shows anything trapped below. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Also in this family

Other engraved designs we make, so you can see the whole choice in one place:

• Tapered Wheat, a wheat and scroll motif on a band that narrows toward the head, no stones

We would rather point you to a different ring of ours than sell you the wrong one. If none of these is quite right, tell us what you are after and we will say so plainly.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, very well. The band is slim and rounded and nothing protrudes, so a straight band sits neatly against it. One of the easiest of our rings to stack.

Can it be resized? Yes, easily. The twigs sit at the shoulders and the rest of the shank is plain.

Are the stones too small to matter? They are genuinely small, and we would rather you set your expectations accordingly. They add a glint at the shoulders, not sparkle. If you want visible accent stones, almost any other design in our range gives you more.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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