Asscher Cut Moissanite Ring with Channel Set Baguette Shoulders in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite held in four slender claws, on a slim band with step cut baguettes channel set into each shoulder. Every stone on this ring is a step cut. Nothing here sparkles in the ordinary sense, and that is the whole idea.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

An all step cut ring

Most engagement rings mix a step cut centre with brilliant cut accents, because brilliants are cheaper to buy and easier to set, and because they add sparkle. That mix looks fine, but the two cuts never quite agree with each other. One flickers, the other flashes.

This ring commits. The asscher centre and the baguette shoulders are cut the same way, with long parallel facet planes, so the whole ring behaves as one object under light. Turn your hand and everything flashes together in broad clean blocks rather than a scatter of points.

It is the more restrained and, we think, the more grown up option. It is also the least forgiving, which is why every stone is VVS.

The channel setting

The baguettes sit inside a channel with metal walls either side and no claws at all. Their tops are level with the surrounding metal, so the shoulders read as a smooth continuous surface with a line of light let into it.

This matters more with baguettes than with rounds. A baguette has four corners, and corners are where a step cut chips. Inside a channel the metal wall covers them completely. It is the correct setting for the stone, not merely a stylistic choice.

The claws

Four claws hold the centre, one at each cropped corner of the octagon. On an asscher this is the right count. Claws on the flat sides would break the straight lines that make the shape read as square, whereas claws at the corners sit where the outline already turns, so they disappear into the geometry.

They are kept slender deliberately. Because the band and shoulders are so clean, heavy claws would be the first thing you noticed, and they should not be.

The asscher cut

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors.

It was patented by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam in 1902 and became a signature shape of the Art Deco years. Because the facets are large and you see straight through them, a step cut has to be clean. Every centre we set is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, and the baguettes are Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. The slim band keeps the centre dominant at every size, and this design carries a large stone particularly well.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in white gold, which is the most authentically period choice, since Deco jewellery of this kind was made in platinum and white metal. It also lets the channel read as one uninterrupted line. Yellow gold draws the channel walls as clear gold borders either side of the baguettes, which makes the setting more legible and warmer. Rose gold is unusual on a design this geometric and works better than you would expect. Silver is the most affordable route. 10K is the hardest and keeps a channel wall crisp longest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast the band, mill the channels, seat each baguette square and level, set the centre, then file and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Baguettes are slower to set than rounds because a step cut shows any misalignment at a glance, and a channel has to be cut to the exact stone. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush along the channel. Clean the underside of the centre too, because you look straight through a step cut and anything trapped below shows more than it would under a brilliant. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, very well. The band is slim, straight edged and the setting does not spread. This is one of the easiest of our rings to stack.

Can it be resized? Yes, within a moderate range. The base of the shank is plain, which gives us room to work without touching the channels.

Are the baguettes secure? Yes, more secure than claw set accents would be. There is nothing to catch and nothing to bend.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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