Asscher Cut Moissanite Bezel Ring with Double Rail Eternity Pave Band in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite held in a full bezel, set on a wide band built from two raised polished rails with a channel of pave running between them, right the way round the finger. The pave does not stop at the shoulders. It is a full eternity.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Pricing note

Our standard prices are based on a band of up to 2 mm. This band is around 4 mm, so a width surcharge of 100 dollars in silver and 400 dollars in gold is included in the prices you see. That is two millimetre steps at our published rate, and it reflects real material and labour: a full eternity of pave between two rails takes far longer to set than a pair of shoulders. Nothing is added at checkout, the price you see is the price.

The asscher cut

An asscher is a square step cut with the corners cropped, so the outline is an octagon that reads as a square. Its facets are broad parallel planes cut in concentric squares, which draw the eye down through the stone in what jewellers call the hall of mirrors.

It does not sparkle the way a brilliant does. It flashes. Light comes back in wide clean blocks that shift as your hand moves, and because the facets are large you see straight into the stone. That is why step cuts are held to a higher standard of clarity than brilliants, and why every asscher we set is VVS.

The cut was patented by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam in 1902 and became one of the defining shapes of the Art Deco period. If you like architecture more than glitter, this is your stone.

The bezel

The centre sits in a continuous rim of metal that follows the octagonal outline exactly, corners included. Getting a bezel to sit true on an eight sided stone is harder than on a round one, because every straight run and every cropped corner has to meet cleanly or the eye picks it up immediately.

The bezel does three things. It protects the corners, which are the most vulnerable part of any square cut. It makes the ring genuinely snag free. And it frames the stone with a hard geometric line, which suits a step cut far better than claws do, because claws interrupt the square outline that the whole design depends on.

The tradeoff, and we would rather say it plainly, is that a bezel covers the outer edge of the stone. A bezel set asscher looks slightly smaller than the same stone in claws.

The double rail eternity band

Two solid polished rails run the full circumference, standing slightly proud, with the pave recessed in the trough between them. The rails take the knocks so the stones do not, which is the same logic as a channel setting applied all the way round.

Because it is a full eternity, the ring looks the same from every angle and there is no plain underside. It also means the ring cannot easily be resized, and we would rather you knew that before ordering than after.

The stone

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity. The accents in the channel are Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear. In a step cut the higher refractive index shows as depth rather than fire, which many people find suits the asscher shape better than it suits a brilliant.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. On a band this substantial we would lean toward 3 carat or more so the stone holds its own.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, where the warm rails frame the white line of pave and the bezel reads as a strong gold outline around the stone. This is the most Art Deco of the options. White gold makes rails, bezel and pave read as one continuous bright object, which is cleaner and more modern. Rose gold is softer and unusual. Silver keeps a wide eternity band affordable, which matters here more than on most of our designs. 10K is the hardest and keeps the rails crisp longest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cast the rail band, mill the channel, set every accent round the full circumference, close the bezel to your stone, then file and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. This is one of the slower rings we make, mainly because of the eternity setting. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush worked along the channel from both sides. A step cut shows dirt more than a brilliant does, because you look straight through it, so clean the underside of the bezel too. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, because the rails give the band straight parallel edges and the bezel does not spread sideways. That said, this ring is wide enough that many people wear it alone.

Can it be resized? Barely. A full eternity band cannot be cut and rejoined without interrupting the stone setting. Please take the sizing seriously with this design. We will help you get it right first time, and we would rather spend that time up front.

Does a bezel make the stone look smaller? Slightly, yes, and we would rather tell you than let you find out. What you gain is the most secure setting there is and a much cleaner outline.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is the reason we can offer a step cut at all with confidence.

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