Asscher Cut Moissanite Alternating Marquise Shoulder Ring in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

An asscher cut moissanite in four claws on a slim band whose shoulders alternate marquise accents with small rounds, the pattern running down about a third of the shank on each side before giving way to plain polished metal.

We make it to order in our workshop in Surat, India. Family run, every ring finished and checked by hand.

Alternating two shapes

A row of identical accents reads as a line. Alternating a long pointed marquise with a small round reads as a rhythm, because your eye keeps registering the change.

The two shapes also behave differently in light. A marquise is long, so it throws a stretched flash that travels as your hand moves. A round is compact and scintillates in place. Set alternately, the shoulder never settles into one steady appearance.

Each marquise is set on its side, lengthways along the band, which is what lets it fill the space between two rounds without widening the shank. Set the other way it would stick out past the edges.

How this compares with our other alternating asscher rings

We make three rings that alternate marquise with round. The difference is size against coverage.

This one carries the accents on the shoulders only. They run about a third of the way down each side and then stop, leaving the lower half of the band plain polished metal.

Our Three Quarter Marquise ring uses the same alternating motif but continues it around roughly three quarters of the band, close to an eternity, with a marquise sitting immediately against the head.

Our Large Marquise and Round Accent ring uses noticeably bigger accents over about half of each shoulder. It has the most accent carat weight of the three and reads as individual gems rather than a decorative texture.

The practical differences are real. This one is lighter, noticeably less expensive, easier to resize because the lower shank is plain, and it sits more comfortably against a wedding band. The three quarter version sparkles from every angle including when your hand is turned away. Neither is better; they are different amounts of ring.

The stone

An asscher is a square step cut with cropped corners, so its outline is an octagon that reads as a square. The facets are cut in concentric squares that draw the eye down into the stone, an effect jewellers call the hall of mirrors. It flashes in broad blocks rather than sparkling, so it contrasts with the brilliant cut accents rather than competing with them.

Every centre stone is Colorless in body colour and VVS in clarity, and every accent, marquise and round alike, is Colorless and VVS too.

Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which in a step cut shows as depth rather than fire, and at 9.25 on the Mohs scale it stands up to daily wear.

Choose the centre from 2 carat up to 5 carat. Because the accents stop short of the head, the centre reads clearly at every size and this design carries a large stone comfortably.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. Shown in yellow gold, where the small bridges of metal between the accents are visible and the alternating rhythm is easiest to read. White gold merges the accents into a more continuous line of light, which is cleaner but loses some of the pattern. Rose gold sits between the two. Silver is the most affordable route. 10K is the hardest, 14K is the everyday balance, 18K is the richest but softest. White gold is rhodium plated and needs replating every one to two years.

Made to order

Nothing is taken off a shelf. We cut a seat for every accent, set the marquise lengthways with their points protected, set the rounds between them, then set the centre and polish for your metal, centre size and finger size after your order arrives. Marquise accents are slower to set than rounds because both points must be covered or they chip. That is how we offer twenty one ring sizes and forty combinations.

Care

Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. Clean under the centre as well, since a step cut shows anything trapped below. Rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Take it off for the gym, gardening and swimming pools, and keep it away from bleach.

Questions we are asked

Will a wedding band sit flush? Yes, well. The band is slim, the accents are low, and the lower shank is plain, so a straight band meets it cleanly. This is the easiest of our three alternating designs to stack.

Can it be resized? Yes, comfortably. The lower half of the shank carries no stones, which gives us room to work.

Are the marquise points secure? Yes. Each point is covered by metal rather than left exposed, which is the correct way to set a marquise and the reason they are slower to set than rounds.

Will inclusions show in a step cut? Not at VVS. That grade is what makes a step cut worth doing.

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