Art Deco Round Cut Lab Grown Diamond Ring with Pave Shoulders in Silver, 10K, 14K and 18K Gold

A round brilliant laboratory grown diamond set in a squared art deco head, with stepped shoulders that carry pave diamonds out toward a fluted band. The square box around a round stone, the tiered shoulders and the fine engraving on the shank are all borrowed from nineteen twenties and thirties jewellery, and the whole ring is built to look like a piece that has been owned before.

At a glance

• Centre stone: Round brilliant laboratory grown diamond
• Carat options: 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat
• Colour and clarity: E colour, VVS2 clarity
• Certificate: IGI, included free
• Setting: Squared art deco head with corner claws
• Accent stones: Round brilliant laboratory grown diamonds pave set in the shoulders, E colour, VVS2
• Band: Stepped and fluted shank
• Metals: 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, rose and white
• Made: To order in Surat, India

A round stone in a square box

The head is a squared frame with a claw at each corner rather than the usual round basket. It sets the circle of the diamond inside a right angled outline, which is the single most recognisable art deco device in jewellery. It also makes the stone look larger, because the square frame reads as the edge of the ring rather than the edge of the diamond.

Stepped shoulders

The shoulders drop away from the head in tiers rather than tapering smoothly. Each tier holds pave diamonds bead set by hand, and the steps throw small shadows that make the metalwork read as architecture rather than as a plain shank. It is slower to make than a smooth shoulder and it is the detail that makes the period reference work.

The fluting on the band

The shank is grooved along its length, a fine parallel fluting that catches the light in lines. Deco rings almost always carried some worked texture on the metal rather than leaving it polished and blank, and the grooves also hide small scratches, so the band ages better than a plain polished one.

What laboratory grown means here

A laboratory grown diamond is a diamond. It is crystallised carbon with the same cubic structure, the same 10 on the Mohs scale, the same refractive index of 2.42 and the same dispersion as a mined stone. Ours are grown by chemical vapour deposition and high pressure high temperature methods, then cut and polished by hand. This is not moissanite, not cubic zirconia and not a simulant. A gemmologist testing it will read diamond, because it is diamond.

Metals

Choose 925 sterling silver, or 10K, 14K or 18K gold in yellow, rose or white. This ring was photographed in white metal, which is closest to the platinum the original deco pieces were made in, and every metal is made to order and priced above. White gold is rhodium plated and will want replating every one to two years.

Every centre stone arrives IGI certified

The centre diamond is graded by IGI, the International Gemological Institute, and the certificate comes with the ring at no extra charge. It states the carat weight, the E colour grade, the VVS2 clarity grade, the measurements and the girdle inscription, and confirms in writing that the stone is laboratory grown. The pave accents are matched to the same E and VVS2 grade.

Made to order in our own workshop

Mapple Gems is a family run workshop in Surat, India, where most of the world's diamonds are cut and polished. The square head is built to the diameter of the individual stone so the diamond sits centred in the frame, the shoulder steps are cut and filed by hand, and the fluting is engraved after the shank is formed. Allow two to three weeks for making, plus shipping.

Looking after it

Warm water, mild washing up liquid and a soft toothbrush. A ring with this much worked metal collects more soap and hand cream than a plain one, particularly in the fluting and under the stepped shoulders, so brush it properly rather than rinsing it. Take the ring off for the gym, gardening and swimming.

Questions we are asked

What colour and clarity are the diamonds? The centre round and all the pave accents are E colour and VVS2 clarity, on all metals and all carat weights.

Does the carat weight include the pave? No. The 2, 3, 4 and 5 carat options refer to the centre round brilliant. The shoulder diamonds are in addition.

Is this an antique ring? No. It is a new ring made to an art deco design, with a new laboratory grown diamond. Nothing about it is second hand, and the certificate is current.

Is the certificate really free? Yes. The IGI report for the centre stone is included in the price on every variant.

Will a wedding band sit flush? Not perfectly. The stepped shoulders come down close to the finger, so a straight band meets them before it reaches the centre. A band with a shallow notch clears them, and we make those to match.

Can it be resized? Yes, at the back where the shank is plain, though the fluting has to be re engraved across the join. One or two sizes either way is straightforward.

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